Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guest darrinspencer

Have you tried DMD 3216 6655

32 GTR bar $500 in 2-pak primer

33 400r side skirts $300 in 2-pak primer

If you have never fitted or bought fibreglass kits before, it is well worth buying them in primer as there is usually a far bit of work to clean them up before putting the primer on.

Hope this helps.

Who quoted you $450????

Sounds like a reasonable price, anyhow the address for DMD is

DMD autosports

1510 Ipswich Rd

Rocklea

QLD, 4106

And the number above.

p.s: the QLD section needs a "automotive links" sticky like VIC does for all this sorta stuff. Then its good to be able to find everything in the one place

Thanx Every 1, I have got my new front bar, sort does not fit 2 good, needs a little cut where my bonnet comes down, anyhow. U know a cheap/good place to ger the bar painted, also my bonnet has been Keyed aswell, so i need to paint it, would not be so bad but it's rather an obscene word.

cheap place = dodgy job

When painting price counts as you dont wanna be stuck doing it again in a year or so you would probably look $300 mark just for the front bar to be painted just depends on the colour of your car and how complex it is to match the colours up

thanx chaos. U dont want 2 b apinting it again. I want a job well done, and I dont mind paying for a good job.

If u got any recomendations on places to go, I checked 1 place already, the quated me $5.50 for the bumer and th ehood 2 b painted.

I was going 2 check out a place at ashmore on saturday. But I really need a garentee almost they'll do a good job, cus I dont want to be doing this again.

DMD as predator said has done some excellent paint jobs on cars or you have aresspeed aswell. Other places you could try would be well known smash repair places, but really shop around i would assume anything thats reasonably cheap i would frown apon. Another place i could recommend would be Apex smash repairs at milton/toowong, i did work experience their and the guys will look after you very well and did some very good paint jobs on cars that come in etc.

If you feel like going for a drive Economy Smash in Labradore on the Gold Coast are very good I had my bar done there twice. Colour match was perfect, preperation was spot on, and the price was fair. Pity Hares can't appreciate the work done cause they got a real good close look twice...

Cheers

Gary

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
    • You think its the AFM? I know its a common issues on R32s. I find it coincidental how this issue raised right after cleaning the fuel system. As everything except the fuel system was fine before. I tried running it with the IACV unplugged but did not notice a difference and still stalled. However, the RPM gauge is not in the cluster right now, so I will need to connect the laptop again and use Nistune to check the RPM. I will check this weekend.
×
×
  • Create New...