Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone, my r32 has an rb25det conversion done by previous owner. I have owened it for about two weeks now. I have done the usual services, oil change, auto trans flush and new spark plugs. Now the thing I am noticing is when under hard acceleration it wont boost past 6.5lb or seven if I'm luckily, its okay reving through the low to Med range but as soon as the revs get high it feels like its spitting or missing, when I take my foot off the the gas a little it kicks back in, slightly. I have checked all vacume lines I could see, which are all silicon hoses with no ties? The coil packs are stock as far as I can see but I would like to find out if it could be more basic before I fork out the cash for new coil packs. Any help would be great or directions to similar threads.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314912-loosing-boost/
Share on other sites

Might help to tell us how much boost you SHOULD be running mate lol. 6-7psi is normal for 25s if my memory serves me correct...

Have a look for an exhaust leak, and/or boost leak.

Boost leak can indeed cause your missing/spitting, and an exhaust leak can cause a lack of boost/laggy feel

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314912-loosing-boost/#findComment-5162762
Share on other sites

Lol sorry I'm running a gizzmo EBC. Set to 9.7lb, I noticed that the silicone pipe that connects the intercooler pipe to the factory inTake pipe on top of the motor has a tiny gap on either side of the tube, I'm not sure if this is due to them being over tightened or the clamps are not closing strait. How much gap would it take to loose that much boost? As far as the exhaust goes it factory dump pipe to 3" cat back. My mechanic put it up on the hoist and did not notice any exhaust problems, it looks pretty new actually.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314912-loosing-boost/#findComment-5162792
Share on other sites

Yeah even the tiniest of leaks can cause a mass fire in RB engines, because they are MAF sensored...

Do you have a pic of said silicone coupler?

How old are your spark plugs?

They could be fouled and not firing properly, the boost is blowing out the poor spark if so, this would prevent your engine from making more boost.

Go through the length of your exhaust and check for studs that are loose, specifically the head-manifold and manifold-turbo ones.

Other than that, have a look at your spark plugs, replace that silicone coupler if it looks like its leaking, and double check all the vacuum hoses and electronics are working for the EBC. Maybe even try to disconnect the wastegate actuator and take it for a spin. Watch your boost gauge very closely and see if you can boost above 7psi. Not the safest method, but it will rule out if your EBC is the problem...

Good luck bro!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314912-loosing-boost/#findComment-5162824
Share on other sites

Oh and do just diconnect the actuator from the solenoid or do I need to block it up?

I would leave the actuator alone you can just turn your boost controller off and that should run wastegate pressure, would be a lot safer.

Still sounds like it could be coils, what gap is your plugs? 0.8mm is the standard most people run with standard coils.

Other than thats if its pulling smooth but boost is tapering off would just likely be able to fix that by playing with the settings on the boost controller.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314912-loosing-boost/#findComment-5162861
Share on other sites

Ok, I have bypassed the EBC and noiticed it still holding boost but still maxing out at 5 sometimes 6lb. It doesn't "seem" to be plaining out or spitting now but there was a fine line between it spitting and not spitting.

what could be going wrong with the ebc? Could it have dual high and low settings

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314912-loosing-boost/#findComment-5163195
Share on other sites

Okay, I have installed all new clamps on piping and ties on vac lines. Now its hitting boost a lot better but its still spitting, it only seems to do it when putting my foot right down, but not when i accelerate just a little, so I'm assuming that's why its still not hitting its full boost.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314912-loosing-boost/#findComment-5163412
Share on other sites

Dang namit! I think this could be my problem. The plugs I was recommended by the ngk book were BCPR6ES, standard copper. but the plugs I pulled out are BKR5EIX, iridium. Now which ones should I be using? BKR5 or BCPR6? Also what is the difference between the two? Besides being copper and iridium.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314912-loosing-boost/#findComment-5164257
Share on other sites

Dang namit! I think this could be my problem. The plugs I was recommended by the ngk book were BCPR6ES, standard copper. but the plugs I pulled out are BKR5EIX, iridium. Now which ones should I be using? BKR5 or BCPR6? Also what is the difference between the two? Besides being copper and iridium.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314912-loosing-boost/#findComment-5164258
Share on other sites

The 5 and 6 (i.e. the number) is the heat rating of the spark plug. The higher the number, the hotter the plug, and warmer plugs are used for turbo cars because boost causes more combustion chamber heat. If your book recommends you run the 6s, and your current plugs are 5s, then this would certainly be your problem...

Make sure they are gapped correctly though, the gap should be listed in the NGK book you've been reading.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314912-loosing-boost/#findComment-5164436
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
×
×
  • Create New...