Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Your going to get different answers from everyone... I personally use only Mobil 1 Full Synthetic. It ranges from about $70-$90 from your local auto shop.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Go...ils-t22458.html

A quality, fully synthetic at around the 5-40 weight for stock (I think Nissan uses 0-30 but not sure, too thin for my liking).

Personally, I run Valvoline Synpower 10W-50 in my built 30 and Neo in my Stag.

  • 2 weeks later...

GW get their oils off shell and put some additives in it and re-sell it, ive run castrol in most of my cars (5w30) has served me very well, performed better than mobil1 5w50 in my gtr actually, kept oil temps below 90 always where as the mobil1 would get abit hotter even if i wasnt driving the car 'hard'.

where is your proof of castrol "sucking ass"

well after using i didn't develop toxic sludge but if i used it again i probably would and oil pressure dropped off allot at temp. i have no proof, im no big oil company and i cant afford to test hundreds of samples to get a definitive result not many ppl can. but the main reason i said it sucks ass it so that ppl would try alternatives because castrol is advertised heaps and ppl instantly go for it when there are better and or cheaper alternatives.

I believe oil sampling kits are only $26 from CAT, maybe try some Castrol and then get a sample tested and THEN, if appropriate, say it sucks ass, with evidence.

Edited by bubba


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
×
×
  • Create New...