Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Nah they dont look like that ^ and they say Xenon but you cant see it in this pic.

I have only ever had Cut H7s in it, and thats what was in it when I purchased the car.

Trimmed H7's is what I used when I did a dodgy conversion job to pass Regency (as I run D2R xenons - that's what came with the car when I bought it - freshly complied).

(Side note: I'm sure I already replied to this earlier with pretty much above - but my post seems to have gone missing...)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/315534-r34-headlamps/#findComment-5167411
Share on other sites

This is what I have been using.

Dont H1s have a different plug thing?

I want to buy some new bulbs tonight hopefully. Just not sure what to ask for.... do the D2R lights come in all different sizes or do I just say D2R?..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/315534-r34-headlamps/#findComment-5169957
Share on other sites

D2R xenons are very expensive over the counter; You could be talking $200-300 for a pair, easy. Getting them online is a lot cheaper.

However - this assumes you still have the xenon ballast, cabling, plugs, etc to hook it all up to.

A D2R bulb looks like this:

d2rphoto1.jpg

... totally different plug to what you have now. But the base (with trimming), and the light source of the bulb is about the same as a H7 bulb (which is why they're sometimes used for compliance purposes, I believe).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/315534-r34-headlamps/#findComment-5170021
Share on other sites

Ill have to check if I still have all the stuff to plug them into. Not sure I do... will check tonight.

Might have to do the trimmed H7s again for now! I hate driving with one headlight. Make my car look pov. Hahaha

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/315534-r34-headlamps/#findComment-5170163
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...