Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Nah they dont look like that ^ and they say Xenon but you cant see it in this pic.

I have only ever had Cut H7s in it, and thats what was in it when I purchased the car.

Trimmed H7's is what I used when I did a dodgy conversion job to pass Regency (as I run D2R xenons - that's what came with the car when I bought it - freshly complied).

(Side note: I'm sure I already replied to this earlier with pretty much above - but my post seems to have gone missing...)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/315534-r34-headlamps/#findComment-5167411
Share on other sites

This is what I have been using.

Dont H1s have a different plug thing?

I want to buy some new bulbs tonight hopefully. Just not sure what to ask for.... do the D2R lights come in all different sizes or do I just say D2R?..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/315534-r34-headlamps/#findComment-5169957
Share on other sites

D2R xenons are very expensive over the counter; You could be talking $200-300 for a pair, easy. Getting them online is a lot cheaper.

However - this assumes you still have the xenon ballast, cabling, plugs, etc to hook it all up to.

A D2R bulb looks like this:

d2rphoto1.jpg

... totally different plug to what you have now. But the base (with trimming), and the light source of the bulb is about the same as a H7 bulb (which is why they're sometimes used for compliance purposes, I believe).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/315534-r34-headlamps/#findComment-5170021
Share on other sites

Ill have to check if I still have all the stuff to plug them into. Not sure I do... will check tonight.

Might have to do the trimmed H7s again for now! I hate driving with one headlight. Make my car look pov. Hahaha

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/315534-r34-headlamps/#findComment-5170163
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...