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ok ive done alot of reading on here and other site about the rb30/25 and have decided to give it a go.

im not looking for big numbers and working on a budget

im planning on updating this thread with more questions i will have along the way

first of all has anyone done this conversion into a 180sx before?

what problems am i going to run into and how do i solve them.

eg. what cross member,engine mounts do i use to get the motor sitting as low as possible?

will i still have bonnet clearance issues with using a front facing plenuim?

i have got myself an rb30 block that has already got the extra oil feed,and tensioners tapped.

the motor is pretty much complete, just doesnt have pistons.

i have been reading and found that using standard rb30e pistons can be done with out any problems.

can anyone recomend a rebuild kit and who to contact for it?

also do i use the standard rb30e rings or is there some aftermarket ones i should use.

i am located in brisbane so if any1 can point me in the right direction to someone that can answer my questions.

thanks for the help in advance

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Check on Nissansilvia now known as hardtuned.net i think

Im sure theres quiet a few write-ups about sticking an RB into a S1X chassis

as for your other questions, what is the goal of this engine/car/budget?

Go from there mate

block and crank have now gone to get checked out and cleaned up.

contacted repco today and got quoted $625 for rebuilt kit, thats all bearings,pistons,rings and gaskets and they are the ACL brand.

my budget is around $7000-$8500 and thats to have the motor in the car running.

goal - around 300-350kw

and it has to be reliable as i will drive it most days

OP sorry to hijack your thread but, is there anywhere where i can buy this ACL rebuild kit you speak of online? I live in Canada so these kits are extremely hard to come by.

Edited by ST240

progress - went with acl race series bearings. i am having an issue with getting pistons, i decided that i would go on the cheap side of things as i am not chasing big power figures, i got in contact with the supleir for mahle, told him what it is i was doing and that i needed a rb30e piston that was 20tho over. they stock this piston. but he has told me that he highly recomend not to use the rb30e pistons and 2go forged as the 30e piston will not handle anything over 7psi boost and it will be unreliable.

Is there any1 that is using the standard 30e pistons on there builds and run into problems? what boost is safe on the 30e pison?

Where can i get the rb30e pistons from in brisbane?other than repco.

do i still use the rb30e rings? or is there some other i shud use?

or do i just spend the dollors on forged pistons -

got afew quotes and im looking anywhere between $1345 - $1500 for pistons,rings and pins.

One place where you should spend the coin on a budget build is the pistons. If the rotating assembly is balanced properly the stock rods will be ok assuming they have been treated, good rod bolts etc. Head studs and a multi layer gasket like Cometic is recommended.

Nothing wrong with Mahles (forged) pistons mate. Have them in my engine.

Got mine from the US for about $1000 when the dollar was good.

Average price for a good forged piston is about $1350.

One place where you should spend the coin on a budget build is the pistons. If the rotating assembly is balanced properly the stock rods will be ok assuming they have been treated, good rod bolts etc. Head studs and a multi layer gasket like Cometic is recommended.

Nothing wrong with Mahles (forged) pistons mate. Have them in my engine.

Got mine from the US for about $1000 when the dollar was good.

Average price for a good forged piston is about $1350.

do i need to go a forged piston for the power i want tho?

do i need to go a forged piston for the power i want tho?

a bad tune, a little cough (fuel pump sucks a bit of air) or a bad batch of fuel may have you regretting that statement.

even a low power levels any of the above can end the life of a stock cast piston. Something a simple as a fuel reg vacuum hose coming off or splitting...boost acutator line etc.

build it once properly...when you want more power later...and you will! It can be wicked up without a worry.

Your chasing 400-470rwhp

Thats pretty substantial imo, get some mahles or CPs

Mahles could be ordered from IPP around $830 AUD delivered which includes pistons, rings and pins

CPs are roughly $1300 locally i couldnt find a it cheaper overseas so i went for the Mahles and majority votes say Mahles are better

Your chasing 400-470rwhp

Thats pretty substantial imo, get some mahles or CPs

Mahles could be ordered from IPP around $830 AUD delivered which includes pistons, rings and pins

CPs are roughly $1300 locally i couldnt find a it cheaper overseas so i went for the Mahles and majority votes say Mahles are better

ive gotten in contact with repco and got quoted $1450 4mahle forged pistons.

where can i get them for $830?

do u have the part number?

block and crank have now gone to get checked out and cleaned up.

contacted repco today and got quoted $625 for rebuilt kit, thats all bearings,pistons,rings and gaskets and they are the ACL brand.

my budget is around $7000-$8500 and thats to have the motor in the car running.

goal - around 300-350kw

and it has to be reliable as i will drive it most days

the acl picstons are junk, get something decent. Im guessing the car is just for generally having fun etc? as the handle pretty bad with all the extra weight over the front axle centreline. We have done alot of RB conversion over the years.

car003.jpg

got some je? forged pistons, shud get block back tuesday from the shop, still having trouble finding out what cross member i shud b using.

JE's are sweet and my first choice, little more hardy than the mahles in a street car. approx $1100

ns.com have alot of info on ther, but they are all doing different things, so it is hard 2get a straight answer.

got the bottom end back on tuesday, $3000 later and i still need to figure out what im doing about an oil pump. i have got the crank collar, but have made afew calls and been told not 2use that, and im better off getting the crank welded and machined - $250,

also what oil pump should i be using? have got quoted $710 for an rb25det.

also does any1 recomend a place in brisbane to get the work on my head done? and what do u recomend getting done to it?

i have read the build guide, just wanting to know what u recomend.

ns.com have alot of info on ther, but they are all doing different things, so it is hard 2get a straight answer.

got the bottom end back on tuesday, $3000 later and i still need to figure out what im doing about an oil pump. i have got the crank collar, but have made afew calls and been told not 2use that, and im better off getting the crank welded and machined - $250,

also what oil pump should i be using? have got quoted $710 for an rb25det.

also does any1 recomend a place in brisbane to get the work on my head done? and what do u recomend getting done to it?

i have read the build guide, just wanting to know what u recomend.

What did you get done on the bottom end that cost $3000?

You can run a collar that's not an issue. They use heat to put it on, as it's an interfierance fit, then they put grub screws in on opposite sides.

It will never move like this. I have done both, collar and welded it, never had an issue with either.

For oil pump any twin cam oil pump will suffice. Again depends on what your going to use it for, if it's going to see alot of track work then I would probably go a nitto pump. Otherwise just take the back of a second hand standard twin cam pump, verify it's OK, new front seal/outer gasket and away you go.

Don't forget to grind down the lugs on the 30 block to clear the exhaust manifold, and also put your oil restrictor in. Rear blocked, front 1.5 if you go standard twin cam pump.

For Brisbane I recommend Matthew at Southside Cylinder Heads. Very good guy. Just google it.

I would probably just go a light port/polish. Could probably do springs if you want, seems to be hit/miss the people that experience valve float at the power your chasing.

Edited by James_03
What did you get done on the bottom end that cost $3000?

You can run a collar that's not an issue. They use heat to put it on, as it's an interfierance fit, then they put grub screws in on opposite sides.

It will never move like this. I have done both, collar and welded it, never had an issue with either.

For oil pump any twin cam oil pump will suffice. Again depends on what your going to use it for, if it's going to see alot of track work then I would probably go a nitto pump. Otherwise just take the back of a second hand standard twin cam pump, verify it's OK, new front seal/outer gasket and away you go.

Don't forget to grind down the lugs on the 30 block to clear the exhaust manifold, and also put your oil restrictor in. Rear blocked, front 1.5 if you go standard twin cam pump.

For Brisbane I recommend Matthew at Southside Cylinder Heads. Very good guy. Just google it.

I would probably just go a light port/polish. Could probably do springs if you want, seems to be hit/miss the people that experience valve float at the power your chasing.

$3000 was on - je forged pistons. acl race series bearings and gaskets. bored 20thou over, acid bath,final clean,all new welsh plugs, crank cleaned,polished and regrind, ther was a couple other things just dont have the reciept here.

i will b using this car as my daily driver, and it will not really be seeing the track.

think i will use the crank collar i have here and possible go a new rb25det oil pump.

with the restictors - the block i got aparently has them in. how do i know?

i will contact southside cylinder heads 2morrow.

Do GTR valve springs fit the rb25det head?

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