Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Tomei are 5 bolts :D

anyone else's feedback on cams all being the same ? HKS , Tomie Etc

all do the same job, all will have EXACTLY the same dimensions, not like an exhaust where things can be different.. so basically buy your fav brand...

I simply got the $50 ones

:ermm:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NISSAN-SKYLINE-RB20...=item5d25ff69f5

received my $250 twin tuned-length manifolds, and my $110 gtr front pipe today

OBX - lifetime warranty

you dont need to spend mega dollars for decent goods

R31Nismoid - NOTHING wrong with ebay. save $$ shop smarter. My hks dumps I got today were $202 from jps trading, thats hell cheap

twin header manifold - http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OBX-Skyline...sQ5fAccessories

front pipe - http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...RK%3AMEWNX%3AIT

Half the ebay links you've provided are utter shit parts. There is plenty wrong with them.

We've seen users time and time again post up about "i got this cheap part from ebay", and low and behold it's either failed and cost double (to replace it the poor man has now paid twice) or is so poorly made its causing more issues than it's worth.

absolute crap nismoid

so so so full of it sometimes mate

Im using on my track rb 26:

$300 550cc siemens denso injectors. ebay. replaced leaking stock injectors

$150 yellow jacket coilpacks. ebay. replaced stock 17yr old units

$200 hks dump pipes. ebay. YES better than stock dump pipes.

$140 obx front pipe 2.5" dual into 3.5" single pipe. ebay. larger than stock

$250 obx twin tuned length manifold. ebay. lifetime warranty

$100 for 2x cam gear wheels. ebay. exact same as brand name items, so you said yourself.

$600 power-fc and controller. ebay.

$1000 wilwood racing 13" brake upgrade including 4-pot calipers, 13" disc rotors, metal lines, bracket adapter, pads. ebay. best brake deal possible

I could go on and on and on.

shop smart save $$$

Ash - show me whats wrong with parts Ive posted up.

so full of it mate. your opinion is just that, but it is not the be all and end all.

there is no difference in buying from ebay or a retail outlet, bar cost savings in overheads etc.

therefore cheaper

not lower quality.

*sigh* like talking to a brick wall. you couldnt imagine how many tens of thousands Ive saved purchasing off ebay rather than a retail outlet.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
done with the mods ! ended up getting tomei cam gears

currently dyno'd for 262kw !

Mate

can you tell exactly what you have on the car to get 262kw And how

much you spend on it, if you don't mind

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...