Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Stalling, Very Annoying, Cant Find Fault!

stimps

By stimps,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

stimps Collaborator

stimps

Posted
Posted (edited)

The previous owner of this car really screwed things up, everything was fiddled with and left in wrong settings. I have slowly fixed everything up and have just a couple of things left to fix. The alternator was screwed, i repaired that, the steering was wrong, no horn, no auto indicator cancel, too low, hicas light on, suspension too low, engine stalling and cutting out, coils misfiring.so now ive fixed most things.

but this problem just persists....

Its a two door RB20DET manual R32 1993 model (imported from japan last year) Completely stock.

Ive replaced the ECU,

cleaned and taped the coils, now no missfires whatsoever. (big smiles)

Ive put in stock springs to get ride hieght right.

horn fixed!

indicator cancel fixed.

Hicas not looked at yet, light still on.

Ive repaired dry joints in the air flow meter (that caused some really shocking stalling)

Found a faulty IAC valve and I am still on the hunt for a working one.

Reset the throttle position sensor as it was out

The throttle stop was wrong, ive set that up right now.

intake leaks, all fixed.

Fuel economy was shocking so i replaced the oxy sensor. That helped its drivability a little, but current problem still there.

It runs ok now when driving along highway and around town, but at the traffic lights and at home, it plays up a bit. It seems to stall a little now and then and it also hesitates when you go to drive off. I thought at first that it might be a loose spring in the blow off valve, but I blocked it off and it still does it.

I have read around and it seems I may have a dirty AFM but ive cleaned it and that made no difference.

I do have an oscilloscope which ive put onto the inputs and watched them while driving and havint noticed anything that would point to this problem.

Does anyone have a clue what I should look at next? Ive still got feeling that I should buy another AFM and try that. but the oscillocope shows that the current one seems to be working fine.

anyone got a clue!?

its really not very drivable at the moment, gives me the shits and i tend to drive my other car to work instead! NOT GOOD lol

Edited by stimps
stimps Collaborator

stimps

Posted
  • Author
Posted

They are NGK ones supposed to be right ones for the car, they are gapped to 0.7mm

I can go see what the number on the spark plug is i suppose, i didnt think they were an issue to be honest, i think of all things, my igntion seems to be really good at the moment:) certainly not the cause of this stalling issue.

If it was, it would cough and splutter, rather than just act doey or cut out like it is now

Luciano Veteran

Luciano

Posted
Posted

a dirty or faulty AAC valve can cause engine idle issues, maybe enough to make the car stall now and then.

theres a DIY on cleaning / freshening it up and resetting your idle which you can try here

the images are R33, but it should be very similar. it can be a bit of bitch to get to & remove/refit, but its really not a hard process overall.

stimps Collaborator

stimps

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Already found the fault.

I had already cleaned the ACC valve, and found a faulty IAC valve, thats a seperate issue.

the problem was, some git owner before me, has extented the AIR flow sensor wiring, for no reason !?? and had just twisted and taped the wires together, - NO SOLDERING!!

*shakes head* no wonder it was playing up lol

lagperformance Contributor

lagperformance

Posted
Posted
Already found the fault.

I had already cleaned the ACC valve, and found a faulty IAC valve, thats a seperate issue.

the problem was, some git owner before me, has extented the AIR flow sensor wiring, for no reason !?? and had just twisted and taped the wires together, - NO SOLDERING!!

*shakes head* no wonder it was playing up lol

joys of the skyline lol i got 3 engines do you need an aac valve i gotta spare one and lots of other parts check my topics or give me a call 0450 728 189

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sinn3r
      R34 Skyline climate control unit transistor

      By sinn3r · Posted

      Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • Kinkstaah
      Blue slip

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • GTSBoy
      Best place to order Authetic R32 Parts in Japan

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • GTSBoy
      Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • GTSBoy
      Blue slip

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...