Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

thinking of getting a guage to use up the redundant sensor on the side of the block

r34's came with an oil pressure guage and there is a fitting for it on the side of the block (near the oil filter) i'm guessing its gonna be a fairly common size

so...... whats a more usefull guage?

temp is good because then i will know when the oil is up to temp and not just the coolant

but pressure would also be good to know and more dangerous to the motor if it drops un-noticed

whats everyones take? (just want one gauge because i know i can fit it without a sandwich plate)

cheers, Tom

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/316095-oil-pressure-or-oil-temp/
Share on other sites

Go definitely Oil Pressure as it will indicate to you if your oil pump is working or not and also a low oil pressure is indicative of low oil level and it's not what you want. Oil's these days especially if you use synthetic oil can withstand high temp and probably more than what your engine produces.

In conclusion go pressure.

Denis the Menace

mad, someone near me is selling a basic calibre (i know its a cheap shit one but its better than nothing) oil pressure guage for $20 ;)

i'll go it

now i'm just wondering if the stock sender will work with it (pretty sure the 34's had a pressure guage and not a temp)

the gauge should (must) come with the sender.

pressure BTW. it also gives you an indication of oil temp (cold v warm) due to the drop in pressure when the oil warms up. won't tell you about over temp oil of course but water temp is normally a good indicator of oil temp

I have afoot in both camps.

After getting rid of the OEM sound unit I had a nice spot for a din size clusterI have an oil filter relocation unit with both temp and pressure senders fitted. Easy. Also you have the OEM oil can warning light that will tell you if there is low level/pressure. Third spot in the cluster is a voltmeter.

I have afoot in both camps.

After getting rid of the OEM sound unit I had a nice spot for a din size clusterI have an oil filter relocation unit with both temp and pressure senders fitted. Easy. Also you have the OEM oil can warning light that will tell you if there is low level/pressure. Third spot in the cluster is a voltmeter.

all my din spots are taken up, got an rs4s so i have the [torque,volts,boost] din unit + stereo + air con

not too sure where to mount it tho, running out of room

got a boost gauge on the a pillar already, ecutalk below the head unit (where i should have cup holders but i dont have any :blink:)

all my din spots are taken up, got an rs4s so i have the [torque,volts,boost] din unit + stereo + air con

not too sure where to mount it tho, running out of room

got a boost gauge on the a pillar already, ecutalk below the head unit (where i should have cup holders but i dont have any :D)

cup holders would make for an interesting drive with a manual hey :blink: i'd go with the oil pressure one too. are you sure it will work with the stock sender? i have a gauge mounted on the dash next to the pillar, just beside that little air vent thing. i just used some good double sided tape and a gauge cup holder/stand. 2 years and its still holding on. you might be able to get it on the dash beside the pillar gauge and still look good. here's a pic of where i'm talking about , 6th and 15th posts down in this thread LINK

Edited by QWK32
cup holders would make for an interesting drive with a manual hey :blink: i'd go with the oil pressure one too. are you sure it will work with the stock sender? i have a gauge mounted on the dash next to the pillar, just beside that little air vent thing. i just used some good double sided tape and a gauge cup holder/stand. 2 years and its still holding on. you might be able to get it on the dash beside the pillar gauge and still look good. here's a pic of where i'm talking about , 6th and 15th posts down in this thread LINK

well i thought i had no cup holders cos it was manual but i saw another rs4s the otherday and it had the pop out double ones just above the sig lighter/coin tray

where you have that gauge is exactly where my pillar mounted gauge is but its attached to the pillar

i'll work something out

I use the mearcat pods: oil temp and oil pressure where the clock used to be, and boost guage on the mearcat a-pillar pod. his stuff is awesome, and custom moulded for each type of car...

I use the mearcat pods: oil temp and oil pressure where the clock used to be, and boost guage on the mearcat a-pillar pod. his stuff is awesome, and custom moulded for each type of car...

but how do you tell the time?

all my din spots are taken up, got an rs4s so i have the [torque,volts,boost] din unit + stereo + air con

not too sure where to mount it tho, running out of room

got a boost gauge on the a pillar already, ecutalk below the head unit (where i should have cup holders but i dont have any :P)

Blitz DC? can mount on any flat(ish) surface with DS tape.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes I can see how that would put you off HFM, especially with the price of good quality brake fluid. From what I understand it as you say the BM50 is the standard BMC for a R32 GTR, I must admit I would like to go far a Genuine Nissan BM57, but lack of cash prevents that at present. With the price being so close between the genuine BM50 and BM57 a BM57 New it seems a better choice as you gain that 1/16 bore size with the BM57, I would be interested in how much difference you feel with the BM57 fitted. I am going to take SteveL's advice in the short term and see how much actually comes out of that proportioning valve vent and save up for the Genuine Nissan part. Thanks for clarifying the HFM failure
    • Thanks mate. I just got the post inspection 1/2 done from state roads when the starter motor packed up, either that or the car alarm system is having trouble.  OEM part number 23300-AA112.
    • Hi, I though I was coming to an end in finding a replacement starter motor for a rb25de neo. I came across a starter motor from Taarks and a message below stating: Direct fit. 11 Tooth count. All below part numbers have been superseded to 11 teeth. Can some body shed some light on going from 8 teeth to 11 teeth apart from 36-month / 25,000 km warranty for passenger vehicles to 12 Month Warranty. Compatible with the following Nissan part numbers: 23300-20P00 23300-20P01 23300-20P05 23300-20P10 23300-20P11 23300-AA111 23300-AA112 23300-AA300 23300-08U10 23300-08U11 23300-08U15  
    • Low battery? Maybe check capacity? I know first-hand, on BMWs if your battery drops below 80% capacity, it starts causing strange issues.
    • 8.5 +37 = should fit rear, but I think it'll hit on front. What you want is low 30s/high 20's front, mid 30's rear. That 17" screenshot you posted looks good, I'd run it on my R32 (but that's long dead now). For tyre sizes, my rule of thumb is: 8': 235, 9": 255. But that's just my opinion. Nismo sizes: 18x8.5+35/18x9.5+38 is a good starting point.
×
×
  • Create New...