Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So its time for me to spend some more money on the car, and reading up it seems majority of the restrictions on the V35 are in the cats.. Im looking for a deeper, slightly louder, and clearer note. Engine note is more important than all out power. So any suggestions for or against exhaust or high flow cats? experiences? Also, will most 350z exhaust systems fit the V35? (I know some full 350 systems can come with an extension for the v35..)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/316346-exhaust-or-hfc/
Share on other sites

HFCs will make your car sound raspier...but you'll get around 5-7rwkw peak gain, noticeable difference. I found the raspiness also translates into a little more cabin noise at cruising RPM...not Honda-style drone, but you can definately hear it. Unfortunately it's all pretty subjective and your personal taste will dictate what's good and not so good. You're definately right about cats being the most restrictive component and probably best bang-for-buck mod on the exhaust side. Extractors didn't give heaps for the time/money spent and Y-back exhaust didn't give too much either. For the price and installation cost, I would not bother with extractors unless you are planning on going high RPM NA build (or supercharger).

My experiences...

Fujitsubo Y-back adds nice deep burble but not much louder than OEM except on WOT.

Fujitsubo Y-back + Tomei extractors slight increase in dB, adds a bit more burble at idle and through the rev-range.

Fujitsubo Y-back + Tomei extractors + X-Force HFC and custom Y-pipe big increase in raspiness and noise.

My friend has a VQHR 350Z and I was able to drive it around for a week or so...with just an HKS Y-back (Titanium) it sounded almost like my car with full system, but higher pitched.

Hope that helps...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/316346-exhaust-or-hfc/#findComment-5176516
Share on other sites

If you're after modifying the note, I'd say do the catback. It is the primary job of the mufflers to modify the exhaust noise, after all.

HFC tend to lead to raspiness but since few people do the cats and leave the exhaust stock it's very difficult to knowledgably say what it'd do if the rest of the pipework is factory. I found that, when I fitted HFCs, the pitch of the exhaust note went up. When I did the catback (which was first) the note at low RPM didn't change much, but in the upper half of the rev range the tone got more gravelly and aggressive.

In terms of sound only, I much preferred having just stock headers/stock cats/HiTech catback. But then, I don't like rasp.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/316346-exhaust-or-hfc/#findComment-5176664
Share on other sites

thanks guys. not looking at getting extractors.. apparently you have to lift the engine out slightly to install them? :S

Just have to keep an eye out for an exhaust now :bunny:

My engine wasn't lifted out. But it did take a long time :ermm:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/316346-exhaust-or-hfc/#findComment-5183835
Share on other sites

thanks guys. not looking at getting extractors.. apparently you have to lift the engine out slightly to install them? :S

It's not 100% necessary, but it does make the installer's job easier. It is a bitch of a job to get to the extractors, especially if your installer has never done a FM platform car before.

FYI if you do decide to get extractors, make sure you find out if they're for LHD or RHD cars. Since the US got the Z and V a lot of parts out there are for LHD vehicles, and so they touch the steering column on a RHD car.

Don't assume that just because you're buying it locally that it'll be RHD. I got my set from a local retailer, and we had to bash one of the pipes a little to get it to stop touching. It only needs to be moved a little bit, but its still a PITA and not technically what you're paying for.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/316346-exhaust-or-hfc/#findComment-5188099
Share on other sites

Yeah mine touches the steering colum ever so slightly when i turn left sometimes.

I "fixed" mine by pushing one of the pipes with an extender bar, and using a mallet to encourage it to give the steering column more clearance.

anyone had any experiences wit hitech mufflers?

Had one for years. Quite liked it. At the time it was $600+ cheaper than a Fujitsubo Legalis-R (and there was no second hand market back in my day). It's basically OEM quiet up to 3000RPM, and then picks up an angry metallic note in the upper rev range. At the same time its not scarily loud, so a cop wouldn't look twice. Basically, that noise is how Nissan should have sold the car from the factory.

The only problem with it is that it drones between 1900-2200RPM (which is 55-65km/hr in 6th gear, so not fantastic for around town). In absolute terms the drone isn't that bad (compared to JDM exhausts on Silvias, Skylines, Hondas, etc), but since the rest of the car is so refined it really sticks out. However, since the V35 is longer than the Z33 your pipes will also be longer. You may not get the drone, or get it in the same rev band, as a result. I haven't heard a HiTech on a V35 so I can't comment for sure.

Also, fit and finish isn't always fantastic. Mine was fine, but a mate had one tip sticking out more than the other.

The Legalis-R mirrors the HiTech's noise but with an even nicer note up top (I reckon). It also doesn't drone. If you can afford to get the Fuji over the HiTech I'd say it was worth it, but you wouldn't be too disappointed with the HiTech. Just drive the thing around town in 5th instead.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/316346-exhaust-or-hfc/#findComment-5198557
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...