Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok so i've been thinking about my frontbar/intercooler right and i've noticed the top edge of the mouth bit that runs along the intercooler runs along pretty much flush with the intercooler

the reason i've been thinking about this is i've noticed it gets hot pretty quick when footing it (not because i have a fetish for frontbars/intercoolers)

would cutting it back a bit allow air to creep up behind the front bar through the intercooler/radiator be worth worrying about?

here is a pic of the front bar, the mouth bit in the botom i'm talking about

http://members.optusnet.com.au/paveway_s1/IMG_6153_1024.jpg

you're in the right area

the mouth bit of the front bar in the center that exposes the intercooler, basically just behind the number plate that extends back towards the intercooler at 90º to the intercooler face, the top bit runs right along the intercooler pretty much up against it almost

like you can see the bottom bit of the front bar, that flat bit along the bottom closest to the intercooler, imagine that up the top of that mouth except pretty much butted against the intercooler

Edited by mystery_kid

Let me get this right [i am having a conceptual challenge moment sorry], so you want to increase the flow of air to the intercooler in this area? you'd have to cut the front bar away to wouldn't you?

Or are you talking about bypassing the intercooler and going direct to the radiator?

ok here is a cross section drawing right down the middle of the front bar

intercooler is in grey, front bar is in dark blue

the area i've marked in red is what i'm talking about, if i cut some of that away from the intercooler to allow air to flow up there

Personally i dont think shifting your number plate is going to help a great deal.

Mine used to be like this:

PA100159Medium.jpg

It didnt really bother me because the cold side was always freezing cold. But on the track etc id still remove it for a bit of extra cool.

Now, i have just bolted it to the same bracket, but raised it and bolted it at the bottom instead.

It'd still be covering more than yours id say.

Edited by gotRICE?

I wouldn't cut it away because as it is at the moment it is guiding air through the cooler and radiator. Cut it away and your effectively making a bypass for the air to go up and around the cooler and radiator rather than through it. Air will always seek the easiest path to flow so you don't want to encourage it to flow around the cooler rather than through it as this would be counterproductive to what you are trying to acheive.

Moreover, aluminium coolers and radiators are excellent thermal conductors....the air that is currently going through the cooler in its present setup will chill/cool that part of the cooler and radiator....but will also chill the top part of the cooler and radiator because of its thermal conductivity properties.

If you really need to improve things then I would consider a vented bonnet as this will relieve the air banking up in the engine bay which in turn impacts on the flow through the cooler and radiator. Or run it on E85.

Edited by juggernaut1

yep that was my other line of thinking, cutting it away would lose concentration on the bit that the air does flow through and weighing up if it's worth it. I didn't add that in cause it was confusing enough as it was lol

I know realistically i need an alluminium radiator, i was just playing around with this idea as something easy to do to possibly improve things

+1 do not cut.

Something you may find interesting tho, a project I did some time ago was a turbo NXR.

I planned the thing for about 2 years while I saved up petty cash and learnt the car inside out. The day the car came to fruition (123fwkw) was one of the best days I can ever remember, the car was blisteringly quick and with the excellent match to power and torque it also handled exactly how I had predicted. It all came crashing down when I decided the top mount was the cause of a mysterious pinging issue (with my stock DET go figure), or so I was advised by every tuner under the sun. So on I went to install a front mount :D.

Next thing you knew power delivery had turned to shit and it has developed a massive overheating issue.. Best of all, it was STILL pinging its guts out, worse than ever. This was the end of it, I gave up and bought an evo.

When I sold the NXR I repainted the front bar to make the new owner happy and drove it around without for around a week. Within that week the car did not ping, did not overheat, did not hiccup, did not do anything it shouldnt have other than have that crappy peaky feeling the cooler gave it.

Problem was fixed :)... I probably could have prevented the whole thing with refitting my splash trays and a good oil cooler WITHOUT a damn airblocking cheap china intercooler. Didnt need an evo... didnt need to sell the car.. but it was too late anyhow.

See this pic for an idea. Hope my garbage story helps you bud.

post-43588-1271754102_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is the territory of the "Stage 1/2/3 Golf GTI/R" or otherwise off the shelf tune with (relative to before) minor mods. It's easier now. Downpipe and Tune and boom, big increases. Stage 1 OEM+ is where it's at. This is where the niche evolved into and it's really easy to see why. It's rare to even NEED to consider changing turbos or going to aftermarket ECU's or building bottom ends for more power. Stage 1-2-3 will get you a LONG WAY. Civic Type R turbo GR Yaris/Corolla Anything with B58 (MKV Supra/x40i) Anything BMW in General Anything Audi in General Any turbo AMG RenaultSport Turbo offerings Korean Elantra N/I30N Ecoboost Mustangs Focus RS? List goes on. I would argue in the future it won't even need to go on... M3P is pretty rapid out of the box...
    • There is a way, but it's not with the same cars. You need to find the same vintage of car, that we had. Realistically, that was an affordable car with aftermarket parts around. So what people need to find is a car that had a decent base in its day, and can be modified. They're looking for a car year make of 2010 to 2015 really... Aus could have done it if Holden didn't fold as V8 commodores were cheap, and if Ford didn't get expensive thanks to COVID, then you could cheaply play with FG Barras. Realistically, those are just a bit heavier, four door skylines. I'm sure the US and UK have similar cars they could find.
    • Haha I do that.. thats when it chirps..The bit point for me is almost non-existent. Otherwise I stall it. But yes, in terms of performance, the clutch is solid af.
    • Greg speaks wisdom. These dirty old Datsuns are only value when they are cheap. When they are not cheap, there is no value. Sounds contradictory, but it's true. We are now 20 years past the hey day of modifying cheap 90s JDM cars for small amounts of money. This is a different world. If you are rich and can afford not to care about what is effectively wasting money on an old Datto shitter, then I have no reason to argue against it. But if you are wanting to experience what we all experienced back in 2005 (and I bought my car last century!) then there is no way to do it.
    • Short answer: No. Medium answer: No, because you still need to conjure the things out of thin air to bolt them to a NA to make it a NA+T. Long Answer: No - The things you need to conjure - meaning a turbo, intercooling, manifolds, exhaust, intake/manifold/piping, clutch, injectors, fuel pump, AFM (?), ECU + Wiring (woo, N/A loom fun) have to come from somewhere. You could have many scavenged these things from an OEM car that someone had upgraded from and use some of these. This will be cost prohibitive now, especially so in the USA. You'd probably pay the same for newer, upgraded components that are better than old OEM stuff from 25-30 years ago. None of these big ticket items are re-usable for the N/A car. Why not buy new and upgrade while you're there? The only real consideration is turbo and fuel sizing and determining whether you want to stay within the bounds of the OEM engine or get into rebuild territory. These limits ARE lower with a N/A motor and especially N/A gearbox at the starting point. And if you're gonna upgrade those then you may as well consider having them built to begin with. Because everyone here knows you're never far from that next engine rebuild once you start making the power you want... The cars you see on the internet and SAU etc have been built over decades. If you're really clued in... you would sell your US car to somebody for what you paid for it. You would then scour AU JDM pages or SAU and buy a car like Dose's on this forum with your powerful American Dollar. This will save you so much money in the long term. Importing it could be tricky. Or it might not because USA. I have long said the only reason 90's Japanese stuff took off was because a) Japanese people had Japanese cars so that is what they used b) Australians could import these cars to Australia with very minimal changes and use them on the road here c) Neither country had well-priced access to US or EU Sports Cars. I don't believe the JDM scene would have taken off in Australia at all if we had EU priced EU BMW M offerings, or more especially the AUS V8 Scene would never have existed if we had the multitude of US cars like Camaros, Mustangs, Corvettes at the prices you folks do. After all - Do the math. I would say put a V8 in your R34 and that's the smart way forward. It is. I did it. I know this from my own experience. But at that point there's no reason to simply not buy a C5 or C6? It would be simpler and easier and cheaper and bette-
×
×
  • Create New...