Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I did a search for Transmission oil in this forum and I couldnt find anything to confirm for a 2003 V35 Coupe AT, is it the same transmission oil as the 350Z? J-Matic?

I'm approaching 70k's, and my mechanic told me the oil should get changed when it starts to go very dark, which mine is..

Has anyone ever done a change on an AT? how much oil do you need and how much did it cost?

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/317660-at-transmission-oil-for-v35-coupe/
Share on other sites

Had my trans oil changed by nissan when I hit 65k mind you they only used one bottel so im guessing they only drained the pan, a full flush should use 2 bottles and yeah only use Nissan J matic

  • 3 months later...

Nissan quote me $260 to change my 6mt transmission oil. For a full flush it's $460. I was thinking if I should just buy the oil from Nissan and take it somewhere else to do it if that's cheaper. Can workshops do a full flush?

Hi Guys,

I did a search for Transmission oil in this forum and I couldnt find anything to confirm for a 2003 V35 Coupe AT, is it the same transmission oil as the 350Z? J-Matic?

I'm approaching 70k's, and my mechanic told me the oil should get changed when it starts to go very dark, which mine is..

Has anyone ever done a change on an AT? how much oil do you need and how much did it cost?

Cheers.

Yep, Matic J or Nulon 100% synthetic transmission fluid (I have used this for the past 60,000kms - no worries)

Matic D or Dextron III will destroy your clutch packs faster than you can accelerate to 100kms.

Nissan quote me $260 to change my 6mt transmission oil. For a full flush it's $460. I was thinking if I should just buy the oil from Nissan and take it somewhere else to do it if that's cheaper. Can workshops do a full flush?

Take it to another Nissan Dealership.

Nissan Ferntree Gully in Vic do a full flush on their machine with Matic J (this includes the transfer case for my car - AWD) for $275. You should also ask for their additive pack to be used in the flush (all new Nissan have this added prior to sale).

Take it to another Nissan Dealership.

Nissan Ferntree Gully in Vic do a full flush on their machine with Matic J (this includes the transfer case for my car - AWD) for $275. You should also ask for their additive pack to be used in the flush (all new Nissan have this added prior to sale).

Thanks for the tip I will give them a ring!

I wouldnt be putting Nissan J-matic into a 6MT transmission :D

haha, indeed!

I was merely quoting what they charged me for the Matic-J flush + additive satchel.

One would think that a manual box flush would be about the same price or possibly less due to the gear oil required.

  • 11 months later...
  • 7 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah I've had too many issues with knock off's on the BMW's. I don't want to do a job twice or more because the parts are shit.
    • I read this and thought "ah! I will do this scissor jack on the tow point thing!" I just use my floor/low profile/costco jack and lift the car up by the tow hook itself, then slide jack stands under. Never thought about using scissor into floor jack combo :p
    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
×
×
  • Create New...