Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Light switch power from low RPM compared to the gradual push of power from the 35R.

I dont understand this, your saying the GT30 comes on harder than a GT35? Yes it will come on sooner but harder???

  • Replies 56
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

There is no way you can beat a GT35 with GT30 on identical car running same mods and same boost. You find GT30s comes up half car length on 1st and 2nd gear and do its little wheels spins. by 7000 3rd gear car with GT3582 will be about 2 car length ahead.

Also I don't really find cars with small and responsive turbos are actually faster. Drag those 180sx with Discos, they just do their little wheel spins, you find them slowing down as soon as their wheels break traction. But for every day that is probably more fun to drive.

Are you all really that hard of reading?

i want fast response and good midrage to redline pull i want to use the car for daily driving, drift and every now and agian drag and curcuit. power comes second to response and relaiblilty for me i wont be pushing it to the extreme but i want headroom.

Over a 1/4 mile, of course the car with more power will generally be faster given all things are equal, however this isn't a 150km/h+ race

But once again... (i think the 3rd time now), the OP is not after PEAK POWER.

Street duties/response/factory motor and so on the choice is very clear cut what choices are there and to suggest a GT35 should even be considered is silly.

If cars are doing "their little wheel spins", then that comes down to the car/driver not the power its making.

Poor tyres, suspension, throttle control, diff gearing etc all contribute to the overall package.

Are you all really that hard of reading?

No I'm not hard of reading. (you mean reading hard?) :merli:

Well if some one pull on front of me for a drag. All I would care is if I can beat him or not. I don't think I would be focusing on the speedo when my peddle is floored. Winners tell loosers that they have better setups.

Edited by kwickr33

Wow this went off topic pretty quick.

The OP wants a responsive turbo with head room, and a turbo that will handle track days/drift & drag days.

STANDARD MOTOR - to the blokes saying your bored of 300kw, come on now, if you can use them all I would be impressed wheels spinning in 3rd doesn't equal a good setup.

Like has been said - 3071 seems to suit.

Asking for more than 300kw of a standard motor is asking for trouble and asking to empty your bank account

Hey guys i do like reading what everyone has to say as everyone has there veiw but in reality i went to a drift day the other day and loved it, and joined a club and will be doing a lot more of it on that particular track i didnt get out of second and even on a big track seeing power hit at the end on 3rd just wouldnt suit that kind of driving and probally hinder it rather than make me a better driver.

i have 188 KW now and i dont want to jump to 350KW its not safe to the motor and me as a driver to jump that far in a car that i am still ajusting the sus setup etc.

i can always go bigger later but atm i dont need it i just want the same power to weight ratio that the S13's and 180sx's my friends have as i have started off with a heavier chasis

i want to use S15 injectors as long as they can reach that power.(suggestions)

and am looking at a 6boost manifold setup love the sound of external gate so leaning in that direction

these are the factors Street driven, reliable has to drive to and from the track, response coming on to boost at 5000rpm wont be fun for me trying to drift the car.

370rwkws with 3076 .82 On stock RB25det with 98 fuel? what boost?

its one of my builds...not stock...but reasonably basic combo.

25psi?...or was it 24? about that figure anyway.

E85 in the tank.

GT3076R internal gate sounds fine for what you want, I'm still having lots of fun with mine - feels great on the track. Big torque between 4000-7500rpm and very progressive and responsive under foot, makes 301wkw and holds within few kw of peak power to redline even on the stock motor. I've not had a single person drive or go in mine who haven't been impressed by the power delivery of it.

Hey guys i do like reading what everyone has to say as everyone has there veiw but in reality i went to a drift day the other day and loved it, and joined a club and will be doing a lot more of it on that particular track i didnt get out of second and even on a big track seeing power hit at the end on 3rd just wouldnt suit that kind of driving and probally hinder it rather than make me a better driver.

i have 188 KW now and i dont want to jump to 350KW its not safe to the motor and me as a driver to jump that far in a car that i am still ajusting the sus setup etc.

i can always go bigger later but atm i dont need it i just want the same power to weight ratio that the S13's and 180sx's my friends have as i have started off with a heavier chasis

i want to use S15 injectors as long as they can reach that power.(suggestions)

and am looking at a 6boost manifold setup love the sound of external gate so leaning in that direction

these are the factors Street driven, reliable has to drive to and from the track, response coming on to boost at 5000rpm wont be fun for me trying to drift the car.

The more info you provide us the more helpful we can be. If you barely get out of second gear drifting then I would suggest your target of 300rwkw is too high for what you want out of an RB25. I would drop it down to 260-270 and go for response. I think a GT3071 or GT3076 with a 0.63 housing would enable you to really use the power drifting.

Then you can throw a 0.82 housing on if you want the headroom for bigger power later on.

Edited by Harey
The more info you provide us the more helpful we can be. If you barely get out of second gear drifting then I would suggest your target of 300rwkw is too high for what you want out of an RB25. I would drop it down to 260-270 and go for response. I think a GT3071 or GT3076 with a 0.63 housing would enable you to really use the power drifting.

Then you can throw a 0.82 housing on if you want the headroom for bigger power later on.

i didnt say i wanted 300KW i just want the same power to weight ratio of my freinds cars but headroom to move on later once i feel i have progressed to the next level.

i currently have the 3076 surg ported turbo in my room from another project i was going to build but not going to do it anymore. its the .63 rear external gate and i have the 3076r internal gate that needs a new core so i can change between the 2 to suit, some people thought it would choke the motor so i thought that i would ask on here, before trying it. hence my question do you guys think the 63 external gate with 6boost manifold is the better choice than the internal gate on the stock manifold?

i was thining of putting some tomei pon cams in but dont know if thats over doing it or would help response and power delivery all the other parts mentioned i have ready to be fitted just dont want to pay for heaps of tunes just get it right the first time and enjoy the car :/

Edited by lookingforboost

I like the idea of a 0.63 housing gt3076r turbo externally gated. I dont know of many that have tried this setup but i think if put together right it should work well. Then if you want more power in the top end you can always change your housing to a 0.82.

I would have recommended the gt3071 but if you want to increase the power later on go the gt3076r and change over the housing.

i didnt say i wanted 300KW i just want the same power to weight ratio of my freinds cars but headroom to move on later once i feel i have progressed to the next level.

i currently have the 3076 surg ported turbo in my room from another project i was going to build but not going to do it anymore. its the .63 rear external gate and i have the 3076r internal gate that needs a new core so i can change between the 2 to suit, some people thought it would choke the motor so i thought that i would ask on here, before trying it. hence my question do you guys think the 63 external gate with 6boost manifold is the better choice than the internal gate on the stock manifold?

i was thining of putting some tomei pon cams in but dont know if thats over doing it or would help response and power delivery all the other parts mentioned i have ready to be fitted just dont want to pay for heaps of tunes just get it right the first time and enjoy the car :/

3076 with 0.63 externally gated on a 6 boost sounds like a winner to me. Yes in 4th and 5th gears the 0.63 housing will be restricting top end power, but going by what you are asking for it sounds perfect.

Nevertheless the 0.63 will give better response at the cost of some top end....but it will meet all the requirements and is sitting there ready to go. There will no boost control issues which is the major potential drawback of the 0.63 internally gated housing.

I think it is more a question of whether you want to go to an external gate vs internal gate as either turbo will work fine.

Ryan how important is drift performance vs top end to you? If drift is number 1 then I think 0.63 internally gated would be the solution. It will give the best response in second gear while drifting.

i could get a 3071 but dose that offer me the option of upgrading later on down the track like the 3076 dose? and would i just use that on the stock manifold? or use it on the 6boost setup idea?

what sort of boost difference between the 3076 .63 to the .82 m i looking at? and those agianst the 3071R

i have the turbo now with the .63 so changing the housing isnt a big deal just getting some insight, nismoid what are your reasons for thinking its to small and that the .82 would be a better option? possibly with some mild cams?

keep in mind i dont want to have more of the RPM rage waiting for boost than usable power

thanks to everyone for providing input to :(

Ryan how important is drift performance vs top end to you? If drift is number 1 then I think 0.63 internally gated would be the solution. It will give the best response in second gear while drifting.

i am not a big fan of top end i cant use it on the street and running to the top of 3rd and 4th dosnt really interest me if i want to go real fast i'll take the bike for a ride :(

as the guys have said and i expericenced the other day they use 2nd and 3rd depending on the track but where they could feather the pedal because of the weight of my car and power level i had to go to the boards to keep it going so power is second to relability response and bottom end punch as long as the turbo can hold a nice power curve till redline.

also bear in mind that the misses drives this car on a near daily basis :huh:

mate of mine has a 3076 .63 on a 25 in a ceffy. its on a 6 boost and the gate is over 40mm. he had a 40mm but it was too restrictive or something along those lines. car made 360ish hp but he dropped it to 340hp. no trouble on the local go kart track and no drama at QR.

if that helps your decision.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...