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[rb26] - Greddy Head Studs - Torquing?

Jobi

By Jobi,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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Jobi Apprentice

Jobi

Posted
Posted

Hi,

I'm currently rebuilding my RB26. It was pushing 570hp (@fly) and was sadly not perfectly mapped (first time I buy a tuned car instead of doing everything myself...never again). So I ended up melting #1 piston. So it's time for a rebuild with forged internals and few extras... :D

Anyway, the engine had only covered 10,000 miles before failure, and it was fitted with Greddy head and main studs. I've been told I could reuse them without any problem. What do you guys think about that?

Is there also someone here who has the tightening specs for Greddy head studs? It would help me A LOT.

Thx for help!!

Jon

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Swiper the Fox Grand Master

Swiper the Fox

Posted
Posted
Hi,

I'm currently rebuilding my RB26. It was pushing 570hp (@fly) and was sadly not perfectly mapped (first time I buy a tuned car instead of doing everything myself...never again). So I ended up melting #1 piston. So it's time for a rebuild with forged internals and few extras... :D

Anyway, the engine had only covered 10,000 miles before failure, and it was fitted with Greddy head and main studs. I've been told I could reuse them without any problem. What do you guys think about that?

Is there also someone here who has the tightening specs for Greddy head studs? It would help me A LOT.

Thx for help!!

Jon

83ft/lb with moly lube.

Swiper the Fox Grand Master

Swiper the Fox

Posted
Posted
Thx for the info! You are using them too? Happy with them?

ive used them a few times with various builds when the parts have already been purchased by the engines owner... the real test of how good they are is when those engines are pulled down and the stretch is measured.

i prefer to use ARP or JUN.

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted
ive used them a few times with various builds when the parts have already been purchased by the engines owner... the real test of how good they are is when those engines are pulled down and the stretch is measured.

i prefer to use ARP or JUN.

i think you will find only the boxes change :(

Jobi Apprentice

Jobi

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah, ARP and Jun are the same. Few years ago, when I bought my Jun head studs kit for my GTI-R, I was surprised to see ARP written on the studs when I opened the package!!

I'll check the length of my Greddy studs. Do you have std specs so that I can see if they have stretched a lot?

Swiper the Fox Grand Master

Swiper the Fox

Posted
Posted (edited)
i think you will find only the boxes change :cool:

maybe i should have written ARP/JUN.

lol

A log of the studs should be kept when engine is first assembled...that way it can be refered to when its freshened. The manufacturer should have a tolerance for stretch limit which can be checked to see if fasteners are still serviceable.

Edited by Swiper the Fox
  • 3 weeks later...
tricstar Mentor

tricstar

Posted
Posted

guys this is slightly of topic but related,

just bought a GTR with built engine ( hks 28 ) when I had it dynoed it split a wastegate hose and hit boost cut over 30psi, now tiny bit of oil under exhaust manifold between head and block, been told probibly stretched head studs and have to take head off, replace studs get head checked etc etc

excuse my ignorance for knowing f### all, but can't the head just be re-torqued ?? car still runs perfectly fine and its only the tinyest bit of oil.. ?

if the above job is required, how much should I expect to pay..?

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