Jump to content
SAU Community

Will R32 Gtr Front Hubs Fit R32 Gtst?

wlspn
 Share

Recommended Posts

wlspn Proficient

wlspn

Posted
Posted

Have searched for threads on this but had no luck.

Read somewhere on here recently that 32 GTR rear hubs are alloy & around 2.5kg lighter each than 32 GTST items. Apparently with GTR rear coilovers & LCAs ( or some modifications to OE) they can be fitted to the GTST reducing unsprung weight & also allowing more choice in coilovers.

Am looking into doing this but anyway, my question is, are 32 GTR front hubs also alloy & can they be fitted to a 32 GTST? If so, what modifications are needed? Has anyone done this?

I have a munted wheel bearing knocking like the wheel is going to fall off & can get hold of GTR front hubs very cheap.

Therefore if they are an upgrade & are able to be fitted (with light modifications even) I would obviously prefer to go with these rather than repairing my originals...

Any help would be appreciated!

Cheers,

Brett

sr_ceffy Apprentice

sr_ceffy

Posted
Posted

[

no you cant fit gtr front hubs to your 32 gtst unless your converting it to awd and i doubt you will notice the difference in unsprung weight changing to gtr rear hub assemblies there is like sfa difference in weight and as for coilover options you can get a huge variety for a gtst 32 so all in all you should just buy new wheel bearings for your front hubs and be done with it

wlspn Proficient

wlspn

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for info on front hubs. Will take my chances with rears.

As I mentioned, have been told from several knowledgable people on here that hub assemblies are around 2.5kg lighter each...

& I'm sure I've read somewhere (correct me if I'm wrong) that removing x amount of unsprung weight is equivelant to removing something like twice the amount of sprung weight. e.g. Removing 5kg unsprung is similar to removing 10kg sprung.

People get all excited about losing 5kg (or less) weight from c/f bonnets, etc so I think it's worth it. not expecting miracles but it all helps. People also pay HUGE money for lightweight wheels, companies like Porsche spend HEAPS developing carbon/ceramic brakes all to reduce unsprung weight...

sr_ceffy Apprentice

sr_ceffy

Posted
Posted

yeh thats true but your talking about the pinnacle of motorsport with a street car your going to notice sfa differnce unless you go light weight with everything which in turn reduces it to not being a street car i think you will be disappointed with the effort involved youd notice more of a differnce striping the interior anyways its up too you this is just my train of thought

  • 14 years later...
Daquavuis Rookie

Daquavuis

Posted
Posted
On 06/05/2010 at 8:45 AM, wlspn said:

Thanks for info on front hubs. Will take my chances with rears.

As I mentioned, have been told from several knowledgable people on here that hub assemblies are around 2.5kg lighter each...

& I'm sure I've read somewhere (correct me if I'm wrong) that removing x amount of unsprung weight is equivelant to removing something like twice the amount of sprung weight. e.g. Removing 5kg unsprung is similar to removing 10kg sprung.

People get all excited about losing 5kg (or less) weight from c/f bonnets, etc so I think it's worth it. not expecting miracles but it all helps. People also pay HUGE money for lightweight wheels, companies like Porsche spend HEAPS developing carbon/ceramic brakes all to reduce unsprung weight...

Did it work? i want to swap R34GTR rear hubs onto my r34GT lmk asap 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • PranK
      R35 GT-R production ends after 18 years

      By PranK · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...