Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, it turns out that I need a rear diff for my 1990 R32 GTR, do they come in different ratios or are they all 4.11?

Prefer local but interstate is fine if prepared to freight.

My rear diff is making what sounds like front pinion bearing noise, no change under acceleration or backoff, just increases with road speed.

Is this common with GTR's? I thought they had a very strong drivetrain, but I guess no diff is invincible.

If anyone has one for sale, either pm, reply or call me (Tony) on 0421985762.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/318632-r32-gtr-rear-diff-wtb-canberra/
Share on other sites

r you sure its not a wheel bearing? the noise should change on decel if its the diff.

Hi all, it turns out that I need a rear diff for my 1990 R32 GTR, do they come in different ratios or are they all 4.11?

Prefer local but interstate is fine if prepared to freight.

My rear diff is making what sounds like front pinion bearing noise, no change under acceleration or backoff, just increases with road speed.

Is this common with GTR's? I thought they had a very strong drivetrain, but I guess no diff is invincible.

If anyone has one for sale, either pm, reply or call me (Tony) on 0421985762.

I was always taught that diff noise will only change if it affects the crown wheel and pinion and bearings, the pinion is not directly load affected, but if that is incorrect I am always open to logical explanations.

I have had the car on four stands and there is no play in either of the wheel bearings and neither of them feel rough, although both wheels are fairly hard to rotate, what I mean is that they don't turn freely like other LSD diffs I have owned, is this normal for GTR's?

I first noticed this when I had to push the car in neutral (handbrake off) and noticed how hard it was, certainly more rolling resistance than I thought was normal.

Is this a clue?

I have also had the wheels and calipers off and checked handbrake adjustment and they seem fine.

Could it be a centre bearing?

First of all, thanks for the replies and PM's, and your right Trozzle, I'm keen to stay with the original ratio because I don't want to change other ratios to match, my first post was probably a little confusing, the reason I mentioned ratios was to make sure that I didn't buy the wrong diff for my car, not to look at options for different ratios.

I now believe all R32 GTR's have a 4.111 to 1 ratio diffs so it was just my lack of knowledge on the subject that caused me to ask.

Regards, Tony

If it was me, i'd be going to one of the transmission places to get it checked out first, there's a couple in Phillip I think.

If it turns out to be the diff you are probably better off getting yours rebuilt, swapping your old diff for someone else's old diff probably isn't the greatest idea.

Cheers,

JD

Agreed JD, I would prefer to have it rebuilt by a professional as well, but if I can buy a good s/h diff then I can send it to a "reputable" rebuilder to have it checked/rebuilt properly, so that the whole process only has to happen once rather than fit a s/h diff only to find out that it is farked and have to pull it out again, but obviously I want to start with a diff that does not require a full rebuild if possible.

It is easy to say "just get it rebuilt" but I have a problem with the "open cheque book" approach to owning a GTR.

This is a 20 year old car and a perfectly good 20 year old s/h diff is ok with me as long as I ensure that its ok before swapping it.

I am a big believer in "if it aint broke, dont fix it" way of doing things and since this car is not driven hard, a good checked s/h diff will do just fine.

Having said all this, I will also make sure that it is in fact the diff making the noise before pulling it out, other things such as centre bearing, wheel bearings (fairly sure this is not the cause) are eliminated by a reputable mechanic first.

It just seems to me that it is the diff, but I could be wrong.

Regards, Tony

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...