Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

My bro just got his new line and we were intrested to see what the turbo looked like to compare to other bros turbo.

and we noticed that the fins look different and are bent and chiped ?

is this a problem ? do we need a new turbo ?

their doesnt seem to to be and problem when driving, all though it sounds different when it spools up you can hardely hear it, it doesnt make the whistling sounds like the pod but its a different sounds ?

Thanks,

by the way its on a 95' gtst

(i'll post pics later tonight)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31865-damaged-turbo-wheel-r33-gtst/
Share on other sites

Well if you go two turbos off the same series motor.

then you can bet your dollar it's a bit damaged.

chipped is not all that good.

Fins can have a 'bent' look. it might just be the wheel.

I dunno what the differences are between the two though... series I vs II.

but i think there was something a tad different.

either way for a new one you only looking at $400

hi

I think I might be having a problem with my turbo too...

It looks ok the last time I checked it..

but at higher speeds.. about 200km/h + there's a really loud shhhhhhhhhhh sound... quite unnatural...

not sure whether something's wrong with the turbo or the blow off valve...

I'm running on standard turbos and turbosmart BOV..

anyone experienced this before?

thanks

That turbo has ingested something, but if it still goes, then keep using it, unless you really want to upgrade. These turbos are generally, not very servicable or rebiuldable. But they are quite tuff. It could keep working fine for years to come. Look at it this way, you only found the damage, coz you looked....you didnt hear any strange noises or see oil or anything.

You can if you want, buy a new comp wheel and get it fitted and balanced, but Personally I woudlnt bother, the time and money isnt worth the problem if the wheel fails. I doubt you would notice the drop in power at all.

I have been playing (that should read, trying to fix:P) a couple of rb25det turbos, and have found the following info....

If you break the seal plate, you can't get a new one (oh no!) If you own a lathe, you can make a new one (doing that now actually)

The turbine is not able to be serperated from the shaft, and is balanced as a single unit

The comp wheel is balance as a single unit, and therefore, you can generally swap wheels with not too much hassle (if you dont balance them, you will get a shorter turbo life, but generally, you will get away with it)

IF you pull apart totally the bearings, (they are not captive bearings) the balls will fall out and roll across the floor, into the drain, cracks in the concrete etc etc, bye bye turbo....

If you can feel shaft play sideways or end ways, the bearings are worn, but if your lucky, you can still have some more room to tap in the centre peice of the comp wheel side bearing (under that damn seal plate im afraid, hard to take them out without breaking them) and get rid of that play, and get another 100 000 kays out of a unit.

Worn bearings and side play and end play in the shaft leads to misalignment of the seals, which of course leads to oil leaks, smoke, etc....

by the way, I picked up a second hand turbo for $200 on the weekend and fitted it to my twin turbo rb25dett VL and it fixed my problem.

So as you can see, spending money at a turbo shop rebiulding a stock rb25det turbo is not a financially rewarding thing to do. Its better to just source a second hand one.

I had two good turbos, untill one started leaking oil into the air intake. Upon trying to fix that turbo, i broke the seal plate. Bought a buggered turbo for $70 and broke the seal plate in that trying to get it out too! :P (DOH)

Bought another good turbo for $200 and fitted it and no worries.

Now im making two new seal plates, using two new o rings, and setting up the bearings in those two turbos again, to see if i can get those turbos operational again. If not, ill turf them:P

black smoke is fuel not oil.

why should it boost higher than standard boost? you got a bleed valve hooked up?

If you have and its refusing to boost very high, it could be any number of alot of other things. I've never seen a turbo that is in such a state that it wont boost higher than standard boost, unless its really stuffed (turbine hitting houseing, seized bearings, etc)

They seem to either work fine, or dont.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
×
×
  • Create New...