Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

^^^ upgraded sway bars are without doubt the best bang for buck handling mod on a V35, but if you are happy with the stock ride height then you are from outer space, and you probably also like the +30 offset on the stock 8" wide rims ... ewwwwwwwwwwwww

For my mind, the 7cm gap between the front/rear tyres and wheel arches are completely unacceptable, and more in keeping with a 4wd off-road vehicle.

Actually, if you just want a better cornering car, why not leave the shock & spring but change the sway bar or Anti roll bar? Actually that's what I'm going to do. I think the car is already low enough and ride is not too hard. I'll like to keep the comfort but a better cornering car.

Sway bars are without doubt the biggest improvement you can make on the V35's handling/cornering.

Bilstein is not standard

.....but were offered as a factory option (along with a replacement rear swaybar).

Bilstein PSS9s, I've heard, are reasonable street coilovers. The PITA rear damper adjustment aside, they're fine. If you plan on just setting them and forgetting them, then they'll serve your purpose.

I'd generally avoid anything Japanese for your intended application - they tend to assume stiffness is directly proportional to awesomeness, whereas the Euros know that maintaining constant tyre contact over an uneven surface makes the car quicker and more confidence inspiring in the real world.

.....but were offered as a factory option (along with a replacement rear swaybar).

makes sense then and explains why the ride is stiffer than other standard coupes. it doesn't look aftermarket either - the nuts all look original (untouched).

Bilstein PSS9s, I've heard, are reasonable street coilovers. The PITA rear damper adjustment aside, they're fine. If you plan on just setting them and forgetting them, then they'll serve your purpose.

I'd generally avoid anything Japanese for your intended application - they tend to assume stiffness is directly proportional to awesomeness, whereas the Euros know that maintaining constant tyre contact over an uneven surface makes the car quicker and more confidence inspiring in the real world.

thanks for the advice, you're the second one to mention the PSS9. set and forget is what i'm after.

  • 2 weeks later...

Quick question guys, saw a few people mention the BC coilovers. Have been searching for them online, but cannot find a listing for a v35. Is it simply the case that they are the same listing as Z33 or do i need to search harder?

Had a few mates running BC's in everything from silvia's to foresters, all have had good reports.

I've been running HSD's in my s13 for the last 11000kms, with street duties as well as 3 or 4 drift days. Can't comment too much on the feel as it's pretty firm in my car (stripped car with 10/8kg spring rates), but they never clunk, seem to perform well, and are easily adjusted.

I have BC coilovers in my Accord and they are awesome. The ride comfort is almost like stock but firmer and much less body roll. I have had them in the car for almost a year now and got no problems at all, no noice, no leaks all is good. If I was after a set of coilovers for the V35, BC is a no brainer. And they are extremely good value too for what they are.

Edited by interfooler
Quick question guys, saw a few people mention the BC coilovers. Have been searching for them online, but cannot find a listing for a v35. Is it simply the case that they are the same listing as Z33 or do i need to search harder?

Had a few mates running BC's in everything from silvia's to foresters, all have had good reports.

I've been running HSD's in my s13 for the last 11000kms, with street duties as well as 3 or 4 drift days. Can't comment too much on the feel as it's pretty firm in my car (stripped car with 10/8kg spring rates), but they never clunk, seem to perform well, and are easily adjusted.

justjap.com have bc racing coilovers for the v35

i actually bought the 350z set myself.

  • 2 months later...

Hi team

Can anyone tell me the BC racing part numbers for the rear suspension please.

I have a 2001 4dr sedan with the seperate shock and spring combo.

If anyone has upgraded there's to BC racing can you let me know please.

Cheers, Oz

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSP male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSP reducing bush?
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
×
×
  • Create New...