Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys seam to be having a bit of trouble with my diff, and i am after advice..

what has been happening over the last 6 or so months is the diff seams to be getting very tight/clunky

when turning at a T intersection when i have just taken my foot of the clutch.

now it is starting to do this at higher speeds which it never used to do (40kph thru a roundabout)

can anyone tell me what is actually happening as it is just the stock diff, and it never used to do it.

if i need to look at replacing things, what should i be looking for, jut shimming, rebuilding, aftermarket?

i just want it to stop clunking :P

also my friend mentioned to me that i should stop driving it incase it locks up, will it actually lock up, and if it does

what will happen? in anycase i think it will need to see a mechanic, as its my daily driver.

any advice would go a long way, thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319021-what-will-happen-when-it-locks/
Share on other sites

And to answer the questions about the locking

I got a nismo 2 way diff which is always locked. Let's say you are on a bend accelerating gently and you back off the accelerator I feel the back end kick out. Worst thing in your case is that you don't know when it's going to lock. Pretty much just have to worry about understeer and the back end coming out when it locks

if it locks it wont just kick out he will need a lot of speed it will just be even clunkier..

agree with you though doesnt sound like a stock diff cos they just single spin most of the time haha.. get it looked at man best thing to do

Sounds like you may have a decent aftermarket diff and is LONG overdue for an oil change.

I know with my Kaaz diff, i need to change the oil every 10,000-15,000km. As the oil gets older, the diff gets clunkier and noisier.

I have driven a 33 with a welded diff, it's not that bad/dangerous; you just need to keep it in mind on wet roads and take it a little easier.

You guys might be on to something with the aftermarket diff. The car did have after market greddy suspension, i have it booked into the mech next monday to have the drivers side ball joint replaced, hopefully the diff just needs some new oil. Will the mechanic have to take the housing of to have a look, and will there be any special markings or stamps on afyermarket diffs? (so the stock diff would never "clunk" in a tight corner right?)

since we on the topic of diffs.

Anyone got advice with driving with a 2 way diff on the street? thinking of getting one in the future and i like to do alot of research before hand!

and i'm trying to get into drift hence the 2 way

nothose pictures dont help you need to pull the rear housing of the diff to check what sort of centre you have and it def sounds like a 1.5way 2ways are usually really noisy make sure your mechanic dosnt try to rip you and replace the whole assembly as for driving with a 2 way take extra care in the wet when down changing gears sometimes its like pulling the handbrake on if your doing a lot of street driving maybe stick with a 1.5 way

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From my youth: GTi-R clutch change is a massive pain. The gearboxes are fragile? But the car is super cool and I want one 😢 
    • Remember this is 1988 tech.
    • Driveline vibration is resolved. I ended up loosening all my engine mount and trans mount bolts, giving it a good shake then retightening everything and it's gone... Let's just say I was surprised that fixed it.  I've been happily driving it around again but unfortunately put zero time into my direct port/constant pressure WMI setup. I'm on vacation next week, so I'll try and finalize it then.  On a different note, I spent all week fuel/ignition mapping 2x 216L V16 engines. Turbo's were burning glycol and we swapped them out for larger units. We also had planned emissions testing on site, so I figured I'd be there the same week to use their instrumentation and massage any emissions issues out if needed. This was a first for me. Fuel management is similar in certain ways to automotive (i.e air density as load variable) but very different in others. It's all PLC based and AFR's are controlled by air and not fuel. They use a control valve between the turbo and air manifold to control pressure which in turn controls AFR's. Due to this, target AFR tables supplied by the OEM are in pressures and not mass which really through me off. They use air pressure vs fuel pressure tables. I also relied on an O2 concentration sensor the emissions team had in the exhaust. Ignition timing was also all over the place and we were losing a fair bit of power. They're now happily sitting at 16-40BTDC depending on load. We were making about 1600kw at 900rpm at 90% load. Engines were running a lot smoother as well.    
    • heh, aint no R32 ever meeting modern targa cage rules unless the driver is veeeery short OP, good luck with the sale, since its already in the land of freedom I'm sure you will find a good buyer.
    • meh, it was a good video, clear about the issue and how he dealt with it. A bit heavy on the RTV and very brave to put an RB in anything without rebuilding it first, but otherwise I thought it was good Dose, I'm not sure that having the pickup forward is a big issue; yes of course the oil could shift under brakes but the sump should never be empty enough for that to be a problem (unless you also have a higher volume oil pump, and that oil can't return from the head to the sump quickly enough)
×
×
  • Create New...