Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hello ive got an r33 gtst and i just pulled my pump out to replace with an intank bosch 023.

pulled it out and was a completly different setup to what ide thought, the pump is located up at the top of the tank with a long feed pickup that runs to the bottom.

i pulled the black rubber boot that the pump was in to get the part no. a42-621 b70.

is this a gtr pump, if so what one 32 33 34.. and how good are they

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319044-gtr-fuel-pump/
Share on other sites

yeh im in the same boat, need one to support 300rw-kw so tossing between these 2, but i definetly want to go replacement intank...

What sort of HP will the 040 support? Tossing up between the 040 or ease of installation or the 044 for further headroom
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319044-gtr-fuel-pump/#findComment-5211934
Share on other sites

I use an 040 and its awsome. As far as I know it is well capable of over 300kw.

As far as external goes forget about a bosch.

You want to use a Pierburg push/pull external pump. These are an in-line style pump so no need for surge tank/swirl pot, no lines in boot, no fuel smell in cabin etc, etc.

For more info contact EFI Performance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319044-gtr-fuel-pump/#findComment-5212131
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...