Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Many thanks Vish, hope you get your wish ...... It took me a while go get the cash and the right car just fell into my lap !

Good luck in you quest. I'm still new to all this..........always had big ol' motorbikes and big Yank Cubic inches but this is great.

As a newie to all this the guys in this forum like yourself have been really pleasant to me and I've been doing

a lot of reading and there's so much information here and I've been inhaling the knowledge from all the gurus who know these cars backwards.

I have a lot to learn.

Cheers & thanks for the note!

regards

Jim

AMAZING car man, so clean and i love the wheels!!!!

the r34 gtr body looks great, additions of some nismo skirts and rear pods make the car flow a little better. apart from that, thats it!

i just got some myself from bodyform and the quality is great, easy to fit with little fine grinding and a coat of paint. Heres a pic to get your motivation up lolz

post-4266-1273043607_thumb.jpg

all the best and many years of safe driving

-Johnny

Needs more low!

:P

nice, that looks mint, and wheels look like sex :P .

welcome to the r34 gtr club lol. unfortunatly i havnt driven mine yet its still in compliance.

hope to see you around melb some time :P

Thanks Sam, you are the ONLY one who will be putting their hands on this car (Except me).

I have Ian to thank for referring me to you and

I'm totally satisfied.

Dr Drift is the man only man in Melbourne...........I'll be back!

Thanks again

Jim

Sam has a great rep and has worked on many a SAU car :P, but to be fair, if your preferred tuner is not available for whatever reason, there are still some very good people to take the car to in Melb. Heard of Race Pace?

Trent @ Status Tuning would be your other top choice for tuning.

Thanks for the tip Gohan,

good to keep on record but for now Sam's the man. He was great......he was way overloaded with work but he still managed

to slot me in and I had the car in a couple of days. Really nice bloke too.Totally professional.

Proximity wise he's fairly close to where I live too.

cheers & beers

Jim

Ta Scotty,you're right,

I can't wait to get some bucks to start buying some bits for this thing............It's just occurred to me that

motorbikes are cheaper ....... Glad I didn't have to sell my old 2 wheeled iron to get my "R" !!

Cheers

Jim

Thanks Brendan, I'm still messin' my dacks every time I turn the key & hear the burble.....and the exhaust is still stock !

Cheers

Jim

Your welcome Jim, I'm still the same every time start mine up lol I got Apexi N1 exhaust.

Ta Kimbod, I'm still comg to grips dealing with the power of of a mill less than 4 litres !

Way different to the big Wedges (V8's) i've had before........ a whole lot more tech too !

Jim

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
    • You think its the AFM? I know its a common issues on R32s. I find it coincidental how this issue raised right after cleaning the fuel system. As everything except the fuel system was fine before. I tried running it with the IACV unplugged but did not notice a difference and still stalled. However, the RPM gauge is not in the cluster right now, so I will need to connect the laptop again and use Nistune to check the RPM. I will check this weekend.
×
×
  • Create New...