Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

My car is up for sale, I now have a work ute, and car is sitting around more than driving.

Has just had 3 months rego put on, exp end of July. Car is reltively original except below tastefull additions.

Details

1998 R34 GTT, 5sp Manual, Turbo

-94,000 kms approx

-18" Rays - Volk Racing wheels 235 fronts yoko semi slick / road tyres, pirelli P-Zero 255's on rear 3 wheels have rash

-Fully adjustable coil-overs, awesome to drive.

-full Turbo back exhaust, 3" with thru cat same size, & a Lightweight Titanium system inc muffler from catback (see pics)

-Has nismo front bar, not ugly stock one.

-Has Just Had major service done (100K one done early due to interested ppl asking if it has been done)

-ALL belts and tensioners done

-brand new gen. nissan waterpump

-Rad / cooling system flush & changed hoses.

-NGK iridium plugs multiprongs

-Splitfire Coilpacks, compression test results available, all good and even.

-new battery. 2yr war.

Car has new excedy HD clutch 3 puck brass button, a lil violent but effective. (1000k's max)

-pioneer mp3 usb bluetooth single din deck.

-pioneer coaxial 2 way splits in rear, kenwood 6" fronts

car goes very well, stops well, and handles very well

asking price is $18,500 negotiable.

e'mail - neon6 'at' adam.com.au

car is carported, locked and secure located near inner city.

no joy rides sorry, genuine buyers need only apply

04092009020.jpg

04092009019.jpg

04092009029.jpg

Image693.jpg

Edited by nat0z
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319168-sa-r34-gtt-man-turbo-in-black-94k/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...