Jump to content
SAU Community

Which Way Does The Crank Angle Sensor Go Back In On Rb25 Det Please Help Me Working On It As I Speak

danny14

By danny14,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

danny14 Mentor

danny14

Posted
Posted

hey guys i just pulled out my cas to have a look at it casue i got missfire probs and i put it back in assuming it only goes one way and i cant get a reading of 10 deg btdc with timing light the cas wont spin anymore anti clockwise

please help me asap cheers

danny14 Mentor

danny14

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeah i just put it in how i got it out ! it can only slot in one way right ?

i cant get 10 deg btdc it wont spin anti clockwise anymore

OMGGTR Mentor

OMGGTR

Posted
Posted

i just did the waterpump on my rb20 is the 25 the same setup with the cas? if so all i did was scribe around the nuts b4 i took it off and the pinion in the middle was half moon only goes one way... also around the cas input it has teeth so it was fairly straight forward...

GTRNUR Grand Master

GTRNUR

Posted
Posted

You need to know what the static timing at idle the ECU is set to deliver. Your tuner might have set it at something out of the ordinary, so it needs to be set at that.

Now... if you know the static idle is 10,15 or 20 degrees and still can't get the correct timing, then the problem is the configuration of the CAS trigger angle, and that trigger will need to be altered.

If you told us what type of ECU it would help.

Also, keep in mind that if you do correct the Trigger settings for the ECU, and get the correct ignition at idle again (15-20BTDC optimal)... then chances are you will have to have your ignition maps fixed too, as altering the main trigger detection angle alters the base calculations for all your ignition maps.

In other words... drive it and potentially have an expensive BANG!

Use caution and seek expert advice if your not sure.

danny14 Mentor

danny14

Posted
  • Author
Posted

all i done was pulled it out and went to put it back in an then wanted to change the ignition timing to 10 instead of 5 like it was originally

i am runnin a link ecu

i just wana get it back in thr right loction i set the advance limit back to zero on hand controller and i cant get it past 5 the cas wont go anti clock wise anymore please tell me wat to do

cheers

rob82 Mentor

rob82

Posted
Posted
all i done was pulled it out and went to put it back in an then wanted to change the ignition timing to 10 instead of 5 like it was originally

i am runnin a link ecu

i just wana get it back in thr right loction i set the advance limit back to zero on hand controller and i cant get it past 5 the cas wont go anti clock wise anymore please tell me wat to do

cheers

Is there a half moon key in the camshaft and the CAS?

Cefiro RB26 Apprentice

Cefiro RB26

Posted
Posted

HI mate, i think i can help

Do you have timing light? always check timing before removal so as to have same performance afterwards.! for next time.

.

1. re fit cas aligning the half moon carefully ( as they can break off) if it does leave it in the cas.

2. grab timing light connect it to your loop wire near ignition module at top rear of engine above coils.

point in direction of timing marker. If u cannot see markers follow on to next step

3. grab a mate or girlfriend and get them to slowly open the spring face of magnetic pick up (on loop wire) while you are still watching timing marks. you will notice that the marks now align with 5deg markers increments. use your under bonnet stickers as guide for factroy ECU timing.

Aftermarket you will need to get engine warm interface with ECU read what base timing is once car is warm set to to this. you will need to rev engine and hold at 1500 or less to make sure that ecu reads same as timing marks.

3a if having trouble another way to get no1 timing is to remove valley cover and connect timing pick up to centre wire of 3 ( just more hassle on some cars)

i hope this is not to late

Cefiro RB26 Apprentice

Cefiro RB26

Posted
Posted
all i done was pulled it out and went to put it back in an then wanted to change the ignition timing to 10 instead of 5 like it was originally

i am runnin a link ecu

i just wana get it back in thr right loction i set the advance limit back to zero on hand controller and i cant get it past 5 the cas wont go anti clock wise anymore please tell me wat to do

cheers

most ecu's have lock timing with 10-15 deg this is used to set timing.

I would prefer if you set everything to way it was.

read what timing the hand controller is saying hope fully it reads 15-20deg

follow the previous post .

im online all day today to help guide you through.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • oHBoy.
      Starter motor replacment teeth count.

      By oHBoy. · Posted

      I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • suko
      J50 clock date suddenly reset to January 1

      By suko · Posted

      The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...