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Rb30 Engine Fitting Into R33 Gtr

leeroy_25
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leeroy_25 Community Regular

leeroy_25

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I have just fitted my RB30 to my R33 GTR.. What a cow of a job, partly due to the setup I am running on the turbo and that little bit of block hieght makes quite a difference!

I would like to know for you guy's that have them in your R33's. Did you space the front of the sub-frame down a few mm to give the front of the engine more bonnet clearance? Or have you just taken out the factory sound proofing and put some adhesive heat relfective stuff on the bonnet so when it bounces around it doesn't rattle?? Also where the top mount turbo is must be more than just a little close so do you need to run some heat relfective matt above the turbo to protect the bonnet? And again where the turbo and manifold are all quite close to the suspension turret and the wiring loom running along this do you re-route the loom if possible ? Or just get some heat reflective shielding for it? I guess the metal brake and A/C pipes are okay? Or do I need to do some metal shields for them too?!

It all closes fine but I noticed you only need to press the bonnet above the timing cover by a couple of mm before it hits!

Some advice please guy's.

Cheers

Lee

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TiTAN Grand Master

TiTAN

Posted
Posted
I have just fitted my RB30 to my R33 GTR.. What a cow of a job, partly due to the setup I am running on the turbo and that little bit of block hieght makes quite a difference!

1. I would like to know for you guy's that have them in your R33's. Did you space the front of the sub-frame down a few mm to give the front of the engine more bonnet clearance?

2. Or have you just taken out the factory sound proofing and put some adhesive heat relfective stuff on the bonnet so when it bounces around it doesn't rattle??

3. Also where the top mount turbo is must be more than just a little close so do you need to run some heat relfective matt above the turbo to protect the bonnet?

4. And again where the turbo and manifold are all quite close to the suspension turret and the wiring loom running along this do you re-route the loom if possible ? Or just get some heat reflective shielding for it? I guess the metal brake and A/C pipes are okay? Or do I need to do some metal shields for them too?!

It all closes fine but I noticed you only need to press the bonnet above the timing cover by a couple of mm before it hits!

Some advice please guy's.

Cheers

Lee

1. i haven't moved my engine at all.

2. still using the factory sound proofing on the bonnet, i haven't noticed any rattles?

3. get a turbo beanie if you are worried - reduces under bonnet temps and looks nice.

4. i use some of the ACL heat shield like you find on XR6 Turbos

post-32350-1273021793_thumb.jpg

leeroy_25 Community Regular

leeroy_25

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Posted

Hi Titan,

Your turbo is smaller and sits lower so that helps.. do you not have any signs on the timing belt cover of the bonnet rubbing on it? It must be bouncing when you drive along as there is littler about 2-3mm clearance from what I can tell?!

I might put some 10mm spacer and lift the rear of the bonnet on the hinges which will aid cooling anyway and give me a little more room for the turbo to clear.. I preusme a turbo beenie is the heatwrap that goes around the exhaust housing? might look into one.. Are they turbo specific?

Cheers

Lee

TiTAN Grand Master

TiTAN

Posted
Posted

yes they are turbo model specific.

like this http://www.rocketindustries.com.au/descrip...p?partno=5RTC-2

the only sign of rubbing at all that i have is from a piece of hose that joins the cam covers and the top of that sits ~1" higher than everything else.

brother_david Rising Star

brother_david

Posted
Posted

I measured the height difference and calculated what height i neede and had aluminium engine mounts made.

Simply its just 2 boxes with an angled top plane. Then i drilled and tapped holes with offsets to get the distance to the firewall correct.

Im using the factory RB30 engine brackets, sold my RB25s with the old engine. Works good so far but im nervous about how long the brackets will hold since they're plane metal welded together and im expecting to get somewhere around 1000Nm.

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