Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

you are only young and probably live in the city going off that price. the car is an import and classed as a sports/performance car (even though it isn't turbo) and you are in your first year of having your licence (going off another post where you said you are on your red p's). welcome to the world of owning imports, where high insurance is the norm (although at your age and for the price of the car you have even a commodore of similar price probably wouldn't be that much cheaper). i think you will be lucky to find insurance much cheaper than that through other places. if you aren't willing to pay that sort of money for insurance then you should've taken that into consideration before buying the car, or go without insurance and hope like hell you never need it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319692-need-help/#findComment-5220778
Share on other sites

you are only young and probably live in the city going off that price. the car is an import and classed as a sports/performance car (even though it isn't turbo) and you are in your first year of having your licence (going off another post where you said you are on your red p's). welcome to the world of owning imports, where high insurance is the norm (although at your age and for the price of the car you have even a commodore of similar price probably wouldn't be that much cheaper). i think you will be lucky to find insurance much cheaper than that through other places. if you aren't willing to pay that sort of money for insurance then you should've taken that into consideration before buying the car, or go without insurance and hope like hell you never need it.

dosnt it make much difference if im 2nd driver?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319692-need-help/#findComment-5220805
Share on other sites

not really, no. they base it off the worst rating history driver. when i had my 33 my insurance was $950 for just me, or $1050 if i had the missus on too. she was a rating 2 and i was a rating 1. but i was 23 at the time, she was 21 and i live in a small town, so that made it a fair bit cheaper. when i had my 180sx i was only 21 and i was paying $1750 a year, but again, only live in a small town. was a few hundred cheaper than if i lived in a major city.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319692-need-help/#findComment-5220836
Share on other sites

Iv got an r34 25gtv and it cost me $2000 on my first year $1500 on my 2nd and I'm about to find out how much its going to be for my 3rd year, iv had it since i was 16 and went through my parents for insurance which helped a little bit.

One other thing to watch out for is when you mod your car the excess goes up fair bit.

If you want to pay a middle man an extra $100 or so they look at the all the insurance companies and find you one that offers the best deal. Otherwise as a minimum get third party + fire/theft insurance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319692-need-help/#findComment-5221632
Share on other sites

Iv got an r34 25gtv and it cost me $2000 on my first year $1500 on my 2nd and I'm about to find out how much its going to be for my 3rd year, iv had it since i was 16 and went through my parents for insurance which helped a little bit.

One other thing to watch out for is when you mod your car the excess goes up fair bit.

If you want to pay a middle man an extra $100 or so they look at the all the insurance companies and find you one that offers the best deal. Otherwise as a minimum get third party + fire/theft insurance

Yeah, im with just cars now. 2.1 k premium and 3k ecesss, so i think imma go third partyand fire/theft. hopefully i dont crash :S.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319692-need-help/#findComment-5222024
Share on other sites

Also helps to put in a 5 star alarm and get at least a double immobilizer (as single doesn't mean much insurance wise), that should cut down your excess a bit and lower your premium a little bit. Your first year of insurance is always a bitch but after awhile (with no claims) they lower everything, try stay with one company and build a reputation with them as the longer your with someone and have had no claims they'll start charging you less and less every year :3some: .

Oh and just for the record iv stated the pro's and cons of third party insurance:

Pro's:

- The excess on full insurance is usually more than what it would cost to fix the car yourself, so if you did crash your better off (if its small stuff like front/rear bumpers)

- Its cheaper full stop.

Cons:

- If some drunk idiot has a rage on your car your f!cked in the wallet.

- If someone crashes into you and doesn't have insurance you may have to fork out on legal fees to get them to fix your car.

- as above, but they do a runner again your f!cked in the wallet.

Third party is only good for shit box cars so i wouldn't recommend it, personally i sleep better at night knowing I'm covered for anything that happens to my car.

Edited by R34 -_-
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319692-need-help/#findComment-5226936
Share on other sites

really? shannons wouldnt insure me... bitches lol

im with justcars with r34 gtt. it was part of the insurance that i had to get an immobiliser, else it was void. was about 1900, cant remember excess.

i agree, i sleep better knowing that i can't lose many grands by some fools actions

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319692-need-help/#findComment-5227618
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
I've got an R33 N/A, and I'm paying $1700 with a $700 excess with Shannon's. 18 Year old.

Bump! Just called shannons to change my insurance over to them, they sed no becasue i need 5 years of driving experience, licensed or not. she asked if i had done 4 wheel driving or track racing, i sed no, then was asked if i had and defensing driving coursed done then they might take that into account.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319692-need-help/#findComment-5329372
Share on other sites

Bump! Just called shannons to change my insurance over to them, they sed no becasue i need 5 years of driving experience, licensed or not. she asked if i had done 4 wheel driving or track racing, i sed no, then was asked if i had and defensing driving coursed done then they might take that into account.

I won the 2009 Driver of the year at METEC Driving center, and I did use that as a reference - I'm assuming that's maybe why I'm on the plan I'm on?

Do a driving course anyway, they're fun, and always helpful no matter how much you think you know about the road.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319692-need-help/#findComment-5332328
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...