Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

but i must add one thing, it is very hard to et an r32 in perth atm, i duno mostly r33 all over the place, im looking for a r32 gtst wid gtr kit or m spec, but noone seems to have one, i was looking at spending nythin up to 17k on it

but nyways, thats my twenty two cents

I'm looking at importing a 1989 R32 GTS-t through Prestige Motorsport within the next few months (to have it imported after May). Obviously, I need to get a car built in May, but I'll persevere.

 

Anyway, I want to find out how much most people spent on compliancing their R32's, so I know how much money I'll have to spent on the car itself. It seems most examples go for around $8000, inc. the broker's fee, and exc. compliancing.

 

I have about $10000 all up.

The pits are cracking down at the moment but usual stuff to get road worthy.

Oil leaks,bushes, shocks, brakes and so on but if you buy a clean car you will have less problems. look around localy as well before you comit.

Concave mirrors pass now, fuel filler cap Pull out your self and get somebody to braze it in, High mount stop light might not be required, child restraints $20, exhausts are being picked on now.

Not to much over here.

Contact Phil at Phills mechanical and see what he can do for you he even takes the car over the pit for you, less stress. Phone. 9493 3069

Side intrusion bars are not regulated like it is in other states. Call Phil and he will give the run down.

Look at www.j-spec.com.au as he lists the cars at the auction and can purchase Yahoo ones.

Also cars do come off Yahoo so look at this link and the one below is the start of Skylines in Japan translated.

http://babelfish.altavista.com/babelfish/u...ion%2Fd44004135

http://babelfish.altavista.com/babelfish/u...egory-leaf.html

aye elithar if ure looking for advice call 'kengtr' he use to import cars, and now has own shop, but he gave me some valuable info if i wanted to import, like never have the car held in japan unless in locked up garage with security as many ppl have had things stolens uch as wheels, stereo, gauges etc, and also if u have to wait it stays outside for the japan winter....which isnt to pleasent on ny car...let alone an 89 model...

but yer give him a call

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...