Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok this is a huge post so just bare with me,

Location is Adelaide.

R33 parts are from a S1, RB25 DET

R32 parts are from a RB20 DET

R33 Boot Lip spoiler - $150

sdc11008w.th.jpg

Full set of R33 mats - $100

sdc11007n.th.jpg

Rear parcel shelf - $30

sdc11006n.th.jpg

R32 GTR rear seats - $100

sdc11005o.th.jpg

S1 front bar - VERY AVERAGE CONDITION $30

sdc10916f.th.jpg

R33 Window washer bottles - $50 each

sdc10914x.th.jpg

Complete Doors in red, drivers is damaged but has everything inside - $350

sdc10915.th.jpg

sdc10989.th.jpg

Silver Boot with wing - $100

sdc11002.th.jpg

Red boot - $100

sdc10999d.th.jpg

Guards for the pair - $150

sdc10997h.th.jpg

R33 dash - $100

sdc10985r.th.jpg

Highflow 3" cat - $100

sdc10986h.th.jpg

R33 Radiator - $130 damaged one $80

sdc10984y.th.jpg

sdc10983f.th.jpg

R33 Passengers light - $150

sdc10974a.th.jpg

R33 Rear lights + center garnish - $120

sdc10975l.th.jpg

Rb25 coilpacks - $120

sdc10972.th.jpg

Standard R33 suspension - $150

sdc10964n.th.jpg

Tein R33 Coilovers, height adjustable - $500

sdc10963l.th.jpg

Greddy FMIC + all pipe work - $400

sdc10962q.th.jpg

sdc10961y.th.jpg

2 SR20 Manifolds - $300 each

sdc10960.th.jpg

R33 castor rods - $100

sdc10948.th.jpg

R33 starter motor - $70

R33 Power Steering pump - $70

R32 Starter motor - $70

sdc10947e.th.jpg

R32 GTR passengers seat, perfect condition - $250

sdc10938mk.th.jpg

R33 standard seats, small rip on drivers bolster - $150 pair

sdc10936q.th.jpg

Silver R33 doors, good condition, complete - $400

sdc10935f.th.jpg

sdc10934z.th.jpg

A pillar interior piece - $30

S1 Grill - $30

sdc10931o.th.jpg

Edited by JiN_MaN
  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

R33 rear pods - $70

sdc10930s.th.jpg

R33 complete boot trim - $100

sdc10928y.th.jpg

Dash surround thing - $40 each

sdc10923t.th.jpg

sdc10922p.th.jpg

R33 exhausts

Twin pipes $350

Brand name Jap kaitamatiso (cant remember name) - $300

sdc10988.th.jpg

Complete R33 manual conversion without gearbox and clutch - $400

sdc10865.th.jpg

R33 uncut loom $120

R33 standard ECU - $80

R33 Cross over pipe + blow off - $60

sdc10867q.th.jpg

Clutch - NEED to be inspected

Exedy - $200

Nismo - $200

Standard - $100

Flywheels - $100

sdc10884k.th.jpg

sdc10883q.th.jpg

sdc10882.th.jpg

sdc10863f.th.jpg

R33 Airbox + snorkel - $100

R33 AFM - $100

sdc10893.th.jpg

sdc10891g.th.jpg

R33 tray - $15

sdc10890u.th.jpg

R33 BOV - $40

sdc10885n.th.jpg

R33 Steering wheels

Good condition - $100

Average condition - $70

sdc10911x.th.jpg

sdc10910rt.th.jpg

R33 overflow bottle - $70

sdc10913ew.th.jpg

Nismo steering wheel, no horn button - $100

sdc10917m.th.jpg

R33 Rear end - $400 (no wheels)

sdc10958s.th.jpg

R33 Engine Crossmember - $100

R33 sterring rack - $80

sdc10955w.th.jpg

And that concludes about 1/2 of the horde of car parts 3 brothers and a father have collected in 2 years.

Edited by JiN_MaN
Do u have any side skirts?

Nope sorry

Hey mate can u pm me your number interested in your "Complete R33 manual conversion without gearbox and clutch"

Done and done

Hey,

3" hiflow cat, is this ceramic or metal core?

Thanks :banana:

I have no idea, if you can give me a clue of how to tell I can check and get back to you.

Hey Jinman, Tein Coileys good condition? how many k's? no sign of leakage?

Condition is fine, I didnt get to drive the car, but was reported to be all good

Unsure km's, I could speculate but would never know the true exact km's, no signs of leaks and the rebound/compress no problems.

Jin Man, no reply Re: Coil Packs yet! :)

Sorry I get sick of waiting for for 5 minutes to write back to people.

Sorry its, $120 for the coilpacks only, loom and igniter are a different sale and not included in the coil pack price.

Greddy FMIC sold

Edited by JiN_MaN
hey mate, can you pm me your number? i'm after the engine loom (inc coil + ign), ecu and air box + snorkel if you still have em.

cheers luke

Pm sent

still have the right front guard?> how much for just that?

pat

0 410644102

$80 + postage

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
    • That still isn't a lot to go on. I don't have a Y50 Fuga Head Unit wiring diagram. I can say that a lot of nissans of that age shared head unit plugs, so if you are in Australia something like this would probably help: https://aerpro.com/app091# You plug that into the car loom, then either plug the head unit ISO into that (if it has ISO), or you buy and ISO adapter harness that you wire in. Bit of stuffing around, but once you have ISO its easy to change things in future.
    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
×
×
  • Create New...