Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok this is a huge post so just bare with me,

Location is Adelaide.

R33 parts are from a S1, RB25 DET

R32 parts are from a RB20 DET

R33 Boot Lip spoiler - $150

sdc11008w.th.jpg

Full set of R33 mats - $100

sdc11007n.th.jpg

Rear parcel shelf - $30

sdc11006n.th.jpg

R32 GTR rear seats - $100

sdc11005o.th.jpg

S1 front bar - VERY AVERAGE CONDITION $30

sdc10916f.th.jpg

R33 Window washer bottles - $50 each

sdc10914x.th.jpg

Complete Doors in red, drivers is damaged but has everything inside - $350

sdc10915.th.jpg

sdc10989.th.jpg

Silver Boot with wing - $100

sdc11002.th.jpg

Red boot - $100

sdc10999d.th.jpg

Guards for the pair - $150

sdc10997h.th.jpg

R33 dash - $100

sdc10985r.th.jpg

Highflow 3" cat - $100

sdc10986h.th.jpg

R33 Radiator - $130 damaged one $80

sdc10984y.th.jpg

sdc10983f.th.jpg

R33 Passengers light - $150

sdc10974a.th.jpg

R33 Rear lights + center garnish - $120

sdc10975l.th.jpg

Rb25 coilpacks - $120

sdc10972.th.jpg

Standard R33 suspension - $150

sdc10964n.th.jpg

Tein R33 Coilovers, height adjustable - $500

sdc10963l.th.jpg

Greddy FMIC + all pipe work - $400

sdc10962q.th.jpg

sdc10961y.th.jpg

2 SR20 Manifolds - $300 each

sdc10960.th.jpg

R33 castor rods - $100

sdc10948.th.jpg

R33 starter motor - $70

R33 Power Steering pump - $70

R32 Starter motor - $70

sdc10947e.th.jpg

R32 GTR passengers seat, perfect condition - $250

sdc10938mk.th.jpg

R33 standard seats, small rip on drivers bolster - $150 pair

sdc10936q.th.jpg

Silver R33 doors, good condition, complete - $400

sdc10935f.th.jpg

sdc10934z.th.jpg

A pillar interior piece - $30

S1 Grill - $30

sdc10931o.th.jpg

Edited by JiN_MaN
  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

R33 rear pods - $70

sdc10930s.th.jpg

R33 complete boot trim - $100

sdc10928y.th.jpg

Dash surround thing - $40 each

sdc10923t.th.jpg

sdc10922p.th.jpg

R33 exhausts

Twin pipes $350

Brand name Jap kaitamatiso (cant remember name) - $300

sdc10988.th.jpg

Complete R33 manual conversion without gearbox and clutch - $400

sdc10865.th.jpg

R33 uncut loom $120

R33 standard ECU - $80

R33 Cross over pipe + blow off - $60

sdc10867q.th.jpg

Clutch - NEED to be inspected

Exedy - $200

Nismo - $200

Standard - $100

Flywheels - $100

sdc10884k.th.jpg

sdc10883q.th.jpg

sdc10882.th.jpg

sdc10863f.th.jpg

R33 Airbox + snorkel - $100

R33 AFM - $100

sdc10893.th.jpg

sdc10891g.th.jpg

R33 tray - $15

sdc10890u.th.jpg

R33 BOV - $40

sdc10885n.th.jpg

R33 Steering wheels

Good condition - $100

Average condition - $70

sdc10911x.th.jpg

sdc10910rt.th.jpg

R33 overflow bottle - $70

sdc10913ew.th.jpg

Nismo steering wheel, no horn button - $100

sdc10917m.th.jpg

R33 Rear end - $400 (no wheels)

sdc10958s.th.jpg

R33 Engine Crossmember - $100

R33 sterring rack - $80

sdc10955w.th.jpg

And that concludes about 1/2 of the horde of car parts 3 brothers and a father have collected in 2 years.

Edited by JiN_MaN
Do u have any side skirts?

Nope sorry

Hey mate can u pm me your number interested in your "Complete R33 manual conversion without gearbox and clutch"

Done and done

Hey,

3" hiflow cat, is this ceramic or metal core?

Thanks :banana:

I have no idea, if you can give me a clue of how to tell I can check and get back to you.

Hey Jinman, Tein Coileys good condition? how many k's? no sign of leakage?

Condition is fine, I didnt get to drive the car, but was reported to be all good

Unsure km's, I could speculate but would never know the true exact km's, no signs of leaks and the rebound/compress no problems.

Jin Man, no reply Re: Coil Packs yet! :)

Sorry I get sick of waiting for for 5 minutes to write back to people.

Sorry its, $120 for the coilpacks only, loom and igniter are a different sale and not included in the coil pack price.

Greddy FMIC sold

Edited by JiN_MaN
hey mate, can you pm me your number? i'm after the engine loom (inc coil + ign), ecu and air box + snorkel if you still have em.

cheers luke

Pm sent

still have the right front guard?> how much for just that?

pat

0 410644102

$80 + postage

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Does that German restaurant still exist in the old place out the NW end of Goulburn? When I say "out the NW end of"...I am really being vague. It was 1997 when I was last there, and the only point of reference I can recall is that it was on the opposite side of the main drag from the big merino. And when I say "opposite side of the main drag", I don't mean "on the main drag". It was either a couple of streets back from there, or might have even been out in the sticks a bit further. Was an old farm building or mill or somesuch. And when I say "the big merino" I might actually be thinking of a completely different part of town, because I just looked on maps and the big bugger is not where I remembered him to be! The food was good, consisting largely of various German mystery-meat sausage/loaf things and kartofflen.
    • So while the second sentence is completely correct and the whole point of the conversation, the first sentence bears consideration. If this bloke is just hoping to throw big turbos on and drive it around, because there are no helpful facilities at all in his tropical paradise** then he likely has zero chance of even knowing what the TP is on the last column in the stock maps, let alone know whether the ECU is operating anywhere near it or past it. So the point is very very moot. And, per what I said before, at stock boost on those turbos, you may well be off the end of the map. **I'm just back from Vanuatu, so I know exactly what small Pacific nations can be like wrt paradise without requisite facilities. But it's not even that simple. I put a high flow on my car and had to drive it around with a proper tune because of the lack of opportunity*** to put the bigger AFM and injectors into it to allow it to be tuned. I had to turn the boost down to less than I had before, and back off the boost controller's ramp, because it was exploring parts of the map that it didn't drive in before, and really couldn't access for tuning on the dyno either, and so was pinging. It was still well within the last column, because when I first**** set up the Nistune on the Neo I rescaled all axes of the maps to give some more space to explore. ***Family dyno was broken ****This was 13 years ago, and the TIM thing wasn't a thing then and so TP would definitely grow when pushing past the stock tune's limits.
    • Yep, this bit another local owner. I caught it before putting the transmission back into the car, what I noticed was the pressure plate fingers weren't flat and even. It's more obvious with the pull style clutch because the throwout bearing ring was visibly not flat once everything is put together. Nismo should really update their instructions to call out this specific detail. I'm not even sure the clutch as-shipped orients everything properly.
    • It ended up being that orientation of the float hub in relation to the clutch disk, when I installed it, I heard a loud click and being stupid, I decided to not take it a part and check it. The hub didn't properly align with the clutch disk and was causing the issue. Definitely an odd one! Dahtone Racing was able to fix me right up, stand up blokes!      
    • Right, but I'm saying on the stock ECU measured airmass from the MAF is no higher than stock. So it's accounting for the higher flow rate iso-manifold pressure. You just have to keep turning down the boost until you're within the stock tune's load scale. If you run off the end there's no telling what will happen. This does mean there's zero benefit to the turbos you're running vs stock, if anything it's just a straight downgrade because the transient response is worse, you don't even get the ECU's boost solenoid helping to pull the wastegate closed during initial spool, and peak power is only whatever the factory map can give you before you hit the R&R corner. On a -9 I would bet that you would have to change out the wastegate spring once you have a real ECU and you're tuning it for real. I'm not saying this is a remotely ideal state of affairs, it's just a way to keep it driveable until you can get a proper tune done.
×
×
  • Create New...