Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

somewhere on the motor assembly. you just have to look around, sorry can't help you anymore cos I'm not pulling my door apart again after spending 5 hours to get to my passenger door lock actuator! (posted a thread here too about that)

I found it on Pg 10....

Ok mine is working like new again after doing the simple reset. I thought I was gonna have to take out all of the bolts again but Nissan/Infiniti made it easy to reset the motor.

I dont know if I missed it, but to do the reset remove the 3 bolts holding the panel and it is behind the smaller sticker on the metal door piece. Remove the sticker and its a little nipple poking out.

With the door open roll the window completely up without using the auto function. (Barely lift up until the window rolls up.

Close the door with you inside the vehicle.

Hold the reset button down while you press the window switch down to roll the window down. Do not use the auto roll down.

After rolling it completely down give it a couple seconds and then release both buttons.

Now you roll the window completely up without using the auto function and give it a couple of seconds before releasing.

Now you should be good. Roll down the window to open the door from the outside.

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

Hi guys,

I was having the window issue (passenger side) a few days ago and ended up cleaning out and reseting the motor. It worked for 2 days and then today coming home i put the windows down. a few min later I felt a bit hot and noticed it went back up on its own!! Tried putting it down again and no deal. Also the auto up/down when open/close the door isnt working again. Annoying!!.. specially when you put a couple of hours worth of work into it a few days ago... Anyway.. just wanted to confirm your thoughts, definately motor that needs replacing? or actuator? Where exactly is the actuator? Throughout all these DIY's i saw a lot of motor accessing/cleaning stuff but no actuator.. Forgive me if im blind..

thanks

  • 2 weeks later...

OK I got the know how to reset the motor. If your window wind down when you auto wind it up, or wind down when you close the door. Here is what my Uncle told me to do. He is a mechanic in Nissan Service Centre in Ipswich Motorway. After you take the motor with the gearbox out from the door frame. Plug the electrical back and turn ignition on. Start winding up or down the window using the switch, looking at the rotating shaft, count 8 numbers of turns. That will reset the motor and the limit switch.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...