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$750 standard unigroup price

These guys go the extra mile before they tune your car.

They bench flow injectors to determine flow rates and spray patterns.

They smoke test your motor to determine whether there are leaks in the piping system

yavuz has a degree in mechanical engineering and he has specialised his work to car tuning which makes him a pro at what he does. Over 15years experience in car tunning, he started on carbies. He is a power fc freak as well.

good service and very informative, worth paying the extra to know he has put the time into refining your machine. remember , tunning brings the whole package together, can make or break your motor. When he tells you he has tuned your car to be driven hard, you know it will last the distance.

Good luck

Cheers for the info,Yavuz has tuned my 33 before he did a top job.I have a newer engine now and feel it needs another tune to get the best out of her. Genelle. :P

I have rectified the intake pipe problem with the 3inch pipe painted black modification. Looks stock and very tidy, seems to work fine.

I have recently noticed a problem with the car and i need to take it back to get sorted out.

On occassions i get the engine light appear as a flash on the dash. This happens at 6000rpm in second and third gear. Only happens sometimes.

Second problem is that car revs out fine when not under full load. When i put the boot into it in second gear i get a slight hesitation or pause at 6000rpm and then the car continues to rev out to 7000rpm. Funny thing is that it happens when the car is warm and running for a while. It feels like it runs out of power and then it kicks in again.

i will be taking car back to be road tested when the sydney weather clears up.

Any of you boys have ideas or suggestions.

On occassions i get the engine light appear as a flash on the dash. This happens at 6000rpm in second and third gear. Only happens sometimes.

Id say this would be excessive knock causing the engine light to flash. Take it easy until you can have it sorted out would be my suggestion. It will probably only be a few load points that may need to be rectified so hopefully nothing major.

I think you might have 2 seperate issues there

1. The engine flashing light means you may need to take out 1 or 2 degrees of timing in the high load cells above 6000rpm to solve that one. I.e. engine knock as mentioned

2. The hesitation may be your coil packs. My coil packs were fine for a while after the tune but i tended to start getting a hesitation or miss around 5000rpm. I tried other Rb25 coil packs I had and coated them in silicone etc. Changed spark plugs. In the end I got some "yellow jackets" new coil packs and straight away it fixed it. They were about $380 off a guy on the forums..When you start running high boost it becomes important to have decent coil packs. At 12psi the old coils would probably still be ok. You could try gapping down your plugs from 0.8mm - if that works then you might be best off investing in the coil packs.

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The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. 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