Jump to content
SAU Community

Autech's Rb26 Version (c34?) Vs M35 Autech

bLaQ.bOi
 Share

Recommended Posts

bLaQ.bOi Mentor

bLaQ.bOi

Posted
Posted (edited)

hey guys, so ive finally got enough mula to get my stagea work/tow slug happening

now ive had a r32 GTR before and i LOVE LOVE LOVE RB26!!!

HOWEVER... you cannot beat new technology...

so my question to people who have driven or owned both... what should i go for?

the m35 or the c34?

if i get the m34 i have enough money to put a r34 front on (put aside 5 g's for that) although i dont know who can get the genuine masa kits in...

anyway

do i stick with the mighty rb26? or do i get with the times and go with new techology.

now im not looking for huggeeee power n what not... not going to mod it much. as im buying a track car...

over all. old vs new?

which one

thanks guys

Edited by bLaQ.bOi
chef_stagea Grand Master

chef_stagea

Posted
Posted
For towing?

No contest, go the C34.

M35 has an alloy sub frame, so not good for a tow car.

Chad will be able to tell you how his c34 tows hit 32! From what I head it's very very good! My 260 was the best car I've driven, so much fun!

stagman Community Regular

stagman

Posted
Posted

lol you'll need more then 5 g for the front end conversion.. And maybe it's just me, but iv noticed everyone that does it goes over the budget because once its apart...they decide to add to the engine...and so the enetiable happens and more(alot more) then 5 grand is spent.

Other then that i wish i could comment on whats better the C34 or M35, but i cant. Based on what looks sick, id go the M35. Based on performance and still a awsome if not equal good looks with right amount of cash, C34.

Tangents Rising Star

Tangents

Posted
Posted
lol you'll need more then 5 g for the front end conversion.. And maybe it's just me, but iv noticed everyone that does it goes over the budget because once its apart...they decide to add to the engine...and so the enetiable happens and more(alot more) then 5 grand is spent.

Hahaha, +1

IMO, The c34 for towing. Also the ease of finding replacement parts, since they share so much in common with the Skylines. This makes repairs/mods more cost effective. The c34 is still a very comfortable car upto 6"2' drivers height with sunroof's (If I was any taller I wouldnt fit into my car), thats if you want sunroof's.

As for the front end conversion...

Check the last link on the first post for a rough price... here this is just the ccubed version (all fibre glass) and I think it is minus paint and fitment.

If you want to go down the Genuine r34 GTR parts route, the only fibre glass you will be using is the conversion fenders, which you can get from ccubed (pretty sure they used Darrins masa guards to make their moulds). then open your wallet for OEM bonett, frontbar, rad support (which you will use only half of), bonett latch and stay, headlights, front indicators and side indicators. then pay for fitment (unless you do it yourself, but be warned you have to shave 15 - 20 mm off the front skirts once you get the radiator support off your car). Then paint you will have to blend the front doors. No doubt while your there you will want to put on a front mount (because the front of the gtr bar looks silly without one), and make up heaps of little brackets to mount everything in the normal position (thermo, bonett lock support and auto trans cooler)... your 5G budget can quite quickly disapear.... :banana:

bLaQ.bOi Mentor

bLaQ.bOi

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thank for the info guys. c34 it is... now to find one in japan... nothing on the auctions atm

as for the front end conv. i jsut want to get teh masa sports kit. the front end kit... but goodluck finding someone who brings them in. otherwise ill have to doit myself like you described...thanks for giving me info on the parts i need. my good mate is a panel beater and another is a spray painter. so were going to do it together, i wont be charged labour. just materials. im a metal fabricator so brackets and things will be easy as for me to knock up... i really realy realy want one.

i assumed all 260rs' come with sunroofs?

iamhe77 Grand Master

iamhe77

Posted
Posted
thank for the info guys. c34 it is... now to find one in japan... nothing on the auctions atm

as for the front end conv. i jsut want to get teh masa sports kit. the front end kit... but goodluck finding someone who brings them in.

im in melbourne.

Have you contacted Arron at Import Monster yet?

They would be able to source the Masa kit and bring it over in one of their containers.

You could then pick it up from their warehouse in Bayswater so save on postage :thumbsup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...