Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

why would you take out the beutiful RB !!! =(

because an sr20 is a better motor than the rb20. and a 2.2L stroker sr20 is even better again, LOL

there are a few sr20 powered r32's and also cefiros. not sure how many are actually on this forum, but i have seen some on here before.

im doing it... will have the engine in mid july... its a simple deal.. just need the sr20 crossmember..

i struggled with taking the RB out... but at the end of the day, its going to be a pure track car.. possibly even a time attack competitor.. so logically... the sr20 is the better engine... 70kg lighter... sits much further back.. and has a tried and tested path... you know that if you add this, plus that.. it will equal X amount of power.. as opposed to spending x amount on an RB20 and getting untried results or a possibly weak engine.

there is one or two on NS.com... a nice light blue one.. i think most of them come from japan with the sr20 in them.

cheers

Linton

Dunno about the R32 chassis, but on the A31 it sits further back, so it gives better weight distribution/handling. Common swap in Japan for that reason, and makes rego+insurance cheaper.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/32...amp;hl=r32+gtst

Recently sold. JWS in WA did the swap on that one.

Edited by Nic_A31
why would you take out the beutiful RB !!! =(
I'd sacrifice the power for the sound of a RB any day

Believe it or not, losing that straight six sound was the point i struggled with the most.. :) I loved my RB.

But at the end of the day, I had taken that stock motor as far as it could go. I had done everything around the engine possible including using the ViPec and hiflo to run 300whp for the last couple years, but it's always felt like a thrown together mess of parts. I was either going to upgrade to a GTR this year, or build an engine.

Opportunity knocked with friend who was parting with his b.crower built 2.2 with gt35. only has 300kms on it. couldn't resist getting 500+whp.

im doing it... will have the engine in mid july... its a simple deal.. just need the sr20 crossmember..

i struggled with taking the RB out... but at the end of the day, its going to be a pure track car.. possibly even a time attack competitor.. so logically... the sr20 is the better engine... 70kg lighter... sits much further back.. and has a tried and tested path... you know that if you add this, plus that.. it will equal X amount of power.. as opposed to spending x amount on an RB20 and getting untried results or a possibly weak engine.

Heh, true. But you're right. There's alot of advantages, less weight (+my block is even lighter than a stock one), sits sooo much farther back (weight distr), and there's just a better history of knowledge and support on the SR, being that RB20s faded behind the 25 fast after 93 (though in canada they're still everywhere since we have the 15 year law)

mods list needed (for me anyway)

need the crossmember (tried modifying the engine mounts on the old one, didn't work)

drive shaft needs to modified

transmission mount needs to be modified (this was easy)

and depending on the manifold you're using, i had to grab a different slave cylinder that was shorter (engine sat too close to the firewall). Used one off a Sunny GTi-R that was lying around.

Guess you probably need a throttle cable too, though i already had one i was using for a monstrous plenum i had built.

-Cheers,

Chris

Edited by Paradis v.1
Shit....that's alot of spare room in the R32 (hadnt seen an engine pay pic that close before).

That must drift like f**k.

I dunno know yet :)

Ya its disgusting how much room there is, and how much weight i think i just shed.

  • 1 month later...

hey mate if you need any advice, i have a sr20 powered r32 as well. best choice ive ever made. car handles sooo much better. are you on secretdrift at all? if so there is a thread on there. best to contact me on there as i use it pretty much every day. glad to see more sr converts. just a shame its in a 2 door. :)

hey mate if you need any advice, i have a sr20 powered r32 as well. best choice ive ever made. car handles sooo much better. are you on secretdrift at all? if so there is a thread on there. best to contact me on there as i use it pretty much every day. glad to see more sr converts. just a shame its in a 2 door. :)

im about 2 weeks from doing this conversion, just wondering if you got it mod plated and how much cost / drama it was? putting it in my pride and joy post-32674-1278933068_thumb.jpg

hey mate if you need any advice, i have a sr20 powered r32 as well. best choice ive ever made. car handles sooo much better. are you on secretdrift at all? if so there is a thread on there. best to contact me on there as i use it pretty much every day. glad to see more sr converts. just a shame its in a 2 door. :down:

Hey there,

No I'm not on secretdrift, link me to the thread if you could please!

As for where I'm at, we had a few gremlins in the electrical system and needed a different trigger wheel, took us a month to get it all cleaned up. It drove for the first time last weekend. Doing the full tune later this week i hope.

  • 10 months later...
  • 2 years later...

Sorry to bring up an old thread, but im currently putting an Sr20 into a r32 4door. Just wondering?? What did you do to the loom to get dash plugs conected? also anything that you didnt hook back up? boost solinoid canester etc?
Any help would be greatly appreciated

SR20 R32 Enginebay

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Why not? Since mines been built, I've used low boost maybe 5 times.
    • Yeah, so widen your search to any Nissan speedo first, then go wider if needed. I will say though, that there is a better than even chance that what I said first will likely come into play. They quite possibly won't come apart without damage. I tried to disassemble a stepper gauge that I wanted to repair. There was no way that needle was coming off the spindle, and I could not see how the spindle would come out of the mechanism behind. Assembled once, never to be disassembled, was my conclusion. Could be the same on the R34 cluster. Failing that - take the cluster to a workshop that specialises in automotive instrument work. There's usually at least one in every Australian city. They'll either be able to do it for you for small cost, or tell you it can't be done. It might be that "it can't be done" unless you follow some arcane procedure, including trickiness to glue it back together or something, that only experienced techs know.
    • Well, given that I, an engineer, almost never bring out the torque wrench to tighten up chassis bolts, despite fully knowing the theory, and instead rely on feel, which I happen to know is exactly how the majority of mechanics do things, should tell you the level of actual peril that exists from not achieving exactly 88 Nm of torque. How about if I just say then that 88Nm is at the lower end of the correct wheel nut torque range? Everyone knows how to tighten a wheel nut, right? And almost no-one ever brings out the torque wrench for that task
    • Don't be ridiculous. "2-3 ugga duggas or one Oof. You have to use Oof on tie rods because you can't get an ugga dugga on there." Is not helping the guy at all.
    • I have done a lot of research before posting here and on gtruk forum. couldn't find anything. I have my gauges all part except the needle itself. the needle has a extremely small hole in the center, but the shaft going to the needle is extremely small and appears to have nothing to index it either. doesn't seem strong enough to simple pry or pull without damaging something. Already tried the old spoon trick on a extra triple meter I have from a gtt, but no luck. the center cap comes off easily but the hole in the meter face plate aren't big enough to get over the needle itself. figured this would be my best place to find someone who might have actually removed theirs. wonder if there is some type of small pin press tool to push the pin in while pulling the needle base off.
×
×
  • Create New...