Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Dude - I'm on my P's and it's just not worth it.

Save yourself the money, and put yourself through Uni.

*Then - Then you can get a job that will buy you a GT-R.

Edited by curlyjimbo
Dude - I'm on my P's and it's just not worth it.

Save yourself the money, and put yourself through Uni.

*Then - Then you can get a job that will buy you a GT-R.

ok for one this is for everyone it is costing me f**k all considering im doin pritty much all the work my self

im nearly a qualied mechanic and make enough to do this and pay off a house.

like i said idk care this post is just for people who wanna learn somthing about there n/a

20 thou grind? off what block? head? do you even know how much it could reduce the combustion chamber? or the compression? or the deck height? do you know you may even need to slightly open up the combustion chamber to a full circle to minimise artificle pinging and detonation

i am a p plater myself and yeah the rules suck. but it makes me just that little bit more excited that in november i can put my rb30de in, i have done 2 years of researching every part and i have done all the machine work so far and i am at an estimated 9k in just parts gaskets bearings cams supporting mods etc, and they are all at trade prices, and there is still plenty more parts to get gearbox breaks diff suspension etc

i have spoken to engineers, police, rta, nrma trying to workout p plate legal mods, from what i gathered in short anything you do that wasnt a factory option needs to be engineered, engineered certified cars are not p plate legal, 7 points and loss of license isnt worth it, you may be lucky and get a highway patrol with no idea but the odd chance you do will only make it an even longer time until you can drive it legally

well it takes me 3 hours to take the motor out and the rest its really not that hard f**k paying somone to do somthing so easy and the really depend how good the guy is at tuning
im doin pritty much all the work my self

LOL! Sorry man but you have no idea what you're doing...

"the rest is not that hard" yeahhhh right, go slapping an RB30 block under a RB25 head and see where your pig of a low comp ratio gets you.

I give the motor 5000kms before it shits itself. I doubt you'll get through the tuning. I don't think you realise how complex rebuilding an engine is and how involved tuning is mate.

Why won't young p palters listen to more experienced folks!??

hahah wat ever yous think idk i looked at your profiles nothing geeks who arfaid to get there hands dirty hahaha losers

Lol because everyone here details their whole lives in their profile? Sorry mate, i imagine most of us are too busy actually doing things rather than sitting on a forum dreaming. Good stuff though, keep it up, definitely keeps me entertained.

By the way, where do you work that pays you enough as an apprentice mechanic to spend that much money on a car as well as pay off a house? I call bullshit, you work at EBGames or Motoquip don't you? Unless you're talking about paying off the electricity bill at your mammas house?

have a cry

Lol i also don't think you can grasp the immenseness of the fuck we do not give. Go ahead mate, do exactly what you say you are going to do, you know everything anyway so it is obviously going to work.

Pity this thread is going to get closed soon, i'd love to see how very little you achieve.

Edited by Hanaldo
hahah wat ever yous think idk i looked at your profiles nothing geeks who arfaid to get there hands dirty hahaha losers

hey man i work as a nissan interp and can tell you the heads of the DE an DET are different. Better look into it more because the DET head uses same parts but spings and a few other bits looks the same but made stronger and have different partNo.

If you do want to do these mods i can tell you its a mess to mod internaly on a rb25 because it took me just over a year too do it all.

It took me 8 months to source 20thou pistons from Nissan japan but it was worth it. Also recomend getting rid of the rear wheel drive and changing to GTS-4 even though its heavier , on a track about ...... a million times better than what the GTS does.

The intake alone will cost you about $4000 + because you cant just dump large amounts of fuel into a engine with stock air intake, not even a stock twin throttle body off a GTR with be a good enough upgrade you going to have to get individual throttle bodies built onto a custom intake manifold all running all of map sensors which will cost $2000 including tune and ecu..........so before your even at the engine i can see it costing $6000 jus because you need custom shit.

Pistons from japan, 20 thou are $3600 (but i brough the last set in the world nissan had in stock so too bad :( just have to get custom) you can use stock rods and shaft or buy the turbo models forged ones minus the pistons but thats a hefty $4000. The head is easy to get parts for because you can use the RB25DET parts and not have to work about fitting, it will be stuff mean to take a turbo pounding. But yeah its a good $2000 in just the 24 valves set up alone...... Cam shafts and gears aswell and a exhaust system ...... yeah the list goes on with parts but intake will be the most expensive part too do and too see 300Kw at all four your looking at $30,000 of a fine tuned machine.

Also remember about gaskets and shiming and stuff. I doubt you can do this yourself, a engine rebuild shop will have to condition your head and block and shim things so there goes some labour costs....

No offence too you by the way, im not a fourm warrior, hope this give you the general gist of the work involved. I have gone through my car internally and its cost $4300 and i had to stop there and havnt moved anywhere in 14 months..............things are expensive even when you get 50% of parts and do ALL the labour yourself (excluding engine reconditioning). Hope your rich!

i also don't think you can grasp the immenseness of the f**k we do not give. Go ahead mate, do exactly what you say you are going to do, you know everything anyway so it is obviously going to work.

fvcking lol martin! amazing burn!

i remember there was some guy on this site selling his RB25de r34 that he put 10k+ into and it sounded like he pulled alright, apparently it beat "most" dc2rs...but then he could have just brought an a gtt anyway with the money. having said that, this sounds pretty interesting, i remember when i first got my car i wanted to make it a beast of an n/a...

Almost qualified mechanic and raking in the cash?? LOL yea right. We all know what we say isn't going to matter. Go do what you want man. Feel like you have accomplished something. But once your massively built super expensive na rocks up next to a stock standard gtst and getS raped to shit don't cry to us.

Im a 3rd year apprentice mechanic and I'm selling my car to buy a house. So I know full well you're full of shit right there. Even qualified mechanics cant afford this.

My advice?? Keep the car, bomb the suspention and brakes will all aftermarket parts so the thing stops and handles insanely well. I'll guarentee you'll kill 90% of people through the twisties. Then build a crazy RB30DET on the side, boost up the fuel system and other support thats already in the car (cooling ect), and have the engine, ECU, and intercooler ready to drop in the day you get off you're Ps. Thats what I'd do.

Will you take my advice? Of course not. You'll me to shove it up my arse, because I know f**k all, I'm a dickhead, I'm a keyboard warrior, yada yada yada. Like I care! Martin, Cam and I are all on Ps and legally drive turbo cars! Well, I'm off my Ps now and Martins isnt turbo yet, but same same.

Have fun with your lancer :)

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...