Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

V35 skylines would be what the doc recommends :)

350GT Premium tiptronic auto.

The driver's seat has many electric adjustments so you can have it just the way you like.

Car isn't overly low so you can get in and out quite easy.

Comfy car with lots of performance.

More gutsy than a 318is, newer and roughly the same price and parts are reasonable.

Thanks for the thought, I thought these were running around $25K which is a fair bit more than I want to spend and I didn't bother looking also maybe a bit of the large-and thirsty side ? I'll have a look .

:P

Edited by BASHO
Thanks for the thought, I thought these were running around $25K which is a fair bit more than I want to spend and I didn't bother looking also maybe a bit of the large-and thirsty side ? I'll have a look .

:)

They have come down in price - autos are cheaper than manuals anyway.

I'd say fuel economy would be on the good side of average - not a light drinker but not a guzzler either - you will also need to fill it up using premium unleaded.

Another option in the v35 range would be the tiptronic sedan version VQ30 (direct injection) - these are somewhere in the 16k to 20k mark depending on year.

the 318i i drove for a while was so gutless. it was shamefull. after owning a skyline you will want to shoot your self when you try and over take someone in the 318i... bmw forgot to put the powers in the engine when they built it, dunno why there hasnt been a re-call yet...

Mum used to own a e46 318i - 4 banger. To be completely honest with you, the car isn't all it's cracked up to be. Sure, it's got leather seats and has a nice interior but the ride is shocking, theres a fair bit of road noise and it doesnt have much go in it at all, especially when you've got passengers.

She ended up trading in for a Mazda 6 - 4 banger again. Much better car, doesn't carry the BMW badge but it's still a nice car to drive, has a better ride than the bmw and in the hatch model there's a bit of road noise but less than the e46 had. The mazda has all the same features the bmw had anyway, and if anything they were more refined. Never had one problem with the car - and I've thrashed it a fair bit when my car was getting a gearbox reconditioned.

Stay away from BMW's they are a real money sink.

If you want to go with an e36, go a 6cyl.

Honestly if you can find an e30 from 1983 with the good ol 4cyl M10 or any of the 6cyls in it they are good and have a fairly nice look to em, e36's alwase look like a tryhards car IMO.

EDIT: Yes all 318's are very underpowered as BMW is a german car they have had to design engins with emissions and economy in mind, power hasnt realy been something they designed for (unless its from the M garage)

Thanks for the BMW info guys , I'm still recovering from the shock of being offered $7K trade for my near minty 98 R34GT-t with 84400ks against a 99 BMW 318iS with 105000 on it and priced very optimisticly , I thought , by the dealer @ $14950.00.

In other words the dealer wanted $8K of me , which is around the wholesale price of the BMW + my R34GT-t to do the deal.

I'm still wondering if I'd slipped through a temporal fiscal warp when I pulled onto the car lot .

If I did I hope I walked back through it when I left.

Edited by BASHO

A $7950 'Changeover' is an insult. I resent the fact that many salesmen consider a grey import as a 'leper'.

But hey Al, you've had enough cars to know that you needed to sell the GT-T first > then get a discount cash deal on the Beemer!

You can still get an E36 325i or 328i auto privately for the same bucks as that dealer 318iS (with perhaps the same kms).

A $7950 'Changeover' is an insult. I resent the fact that many salesmen consider a grey import as a 'leper'.

But hey Al, you've had enough cars to know that you needed to sell the GT-T first > then get a discount cash deal on the Beemer!

You can still get an E36 325i or 328i auto privately for the same bucks as that dealer 318iS (with perhaps the same kms).

Yeah Terry , I know, I was just shocked--even more so that I didn't belt him, I must be getting old, woops--so that was it :) .

I carsalesed it today anyway and I've had one enquiry from here who was going to look today but unfortunately a family matter came up and he had to cancel.

Edited by BASHO

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sold listed as a Tomei LSD 1.5 Way For 1998+ Nissan Skyline ER34 25GT RB25DE w/Open R200 https://www.ebay.com/itm/174006114594?campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms=&campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=71883f2ccc571356e0a757bc7adfdde2&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms= it went in like butter all gears, alignment, back lash etc, rotation and clearances correct, and if rolling all rotates smooth and free when coasting down road , clutch in or out over 10 mph smooth... its the binding, clunking and jerking from a stop that is most concerning, also seems like its going to tear the tires off in 10 miles of normal road driving. 
    • What 1.5 way? There's no such thing really as a 1.5 way, just different ways of explaining 2 ways with different ramp rates. HOWEVER. In any driving in a straight line your 1.5 or 2 or 1.7 way should have no clunking at all. With the clutch fully depressed the diff should be silent (unless it's welded but I'm assuming it's not). Something aint right here.
    • Clutch is a spec brand, new clutch system,( PP, flywheel, friction disc, etc. pull type) installed 100 miles ago, with no problems.
    • looking for some help and maybe some insight on others experience with a new LSD. R34 GT ran and drove beautifully, but always alot of grip loss due to the open R200 rear end, so I just installed a new 1.5 LSD way into the stock open R200 for a ER34. Simple. Everything seemed right. I test drove for the first time this weekend. as I started to back out the garage the first time slowly with tires straight it sounded and felt like I had a loose or half disconnected drive shaft...that was clucking around loose and shaking entire vehicle, and making it feel like the trans clutch was spontaneously slipping then grabbing very roughly while just letting out pedal slowly. I backed it out went to pull forward with the same noise, shake and slip grab feeling with hesitation, I turned the tires to back out more and then pulled ahead some same thing but worst because of added wheel resistance (which that I expected) puzzled … pulling it back in checking everything over and finding nothing wrong, I tried it the next day. same thing, couldn’t believe how it shook everything again making a terrible noise and making it feel like the trans clutch was slipping and grabbing, but I got it out of garage into the driveway, got it straight, drove forward and then reveres a few times in a straight line everything shaking , causing what felt like clutch slip and grab every time, sounded like right behind front driver tire and I could feel it in the floor board with my feet,... worst right when beginning to let clutch pedal out to engage slightly, shuttering and sounding terrible along the way…I managed to slowly get down the road, babying it the whole way, once I was rolling (out of 1st) seemed to be better and between shifts, then clutch felt closer to normal…not slip/ grab etc., but back down to any stop, straight road or turning, same thing. Made no difference if all tires were straight or if I was turning. All other gauge read out correct. with in 2 miles as planned I reached the empty parking lot and performed the break in procedure that came with lsd, essentially to drive in a figure 8 a bunch.  Did this, binding chattering, and shaking the car the whole way. I drove it back home seemed somewhat normal once I was in straight line and past 10 mph or so, and I know it will “bind” on corners and cause some tires squeal when turning especially from a stop, but when I begin to move it still causes what feels like the trans clutch to slip and jerk badly as well as shaking the entire car, and sounds terrible, that I didn’t expect. I used the fluid they supplied with LSD kit and did the breaking, planning to change fluid as they suggest after breaking, but wondering will it get smoother or less aggressive with use? maybe a 1.5 is just too aggressive for normal road driving?   I have a LSD that I put in my 71 cuda when I restored it, with amazing smooth , quite yet effective results. Different style LSD but that ones a joy to drive. maybe expecting too much from this R200?
    • Join SAU NSW for a flame-grilled feed & flame-spitting cruise! Sunday 17th August 2025 3:30PM Meeting Archies Flame Grille Sylvania Waters 4:45PM Cruise Departure 5:15PM Arrival at Cape Solander Kurnell Meet Location: Archies Flame Grille Final Destination: Cape Solander Kurnell *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
×
×
  • Create New...