Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So i got rid of my Maxima and replaced it with this bad boy. For the price it was going for, its condition and the options it has, I couldn't say no.

Its an 89 model, RB20E Auto, 76xxx kms seem genuine.

Panels are all good bar one (pending fix), the paint is shit especially on the bumpers and there's a few spots of rust.

Runs mint though, has been looked after really well, the air con still works.

Needed to pick myself up a nice car to cruise around in. Having a work car is awesome, but a manual hilux with radio only certainly never fits when you want to go for a drive late at night or on the weekend.

Options include:

Factory sunroof w/ shade + logo

ABS (unusual for pre - xNA31s)

Optional fabric interior (still pretty bleh, but better than standard)

Extra bling lining down the doors.

30917_10150188620235131_778040130_12563429_4553467_n.jpg

-

30917_10150188624145131_778040130_12563468_6114204_n.jpg

-

30917_10150188624160131_778040130_12563470_5085483_n.jpg

-

30917_10150188624170131_778040130_12563472_7031484_n.jpg

-

30917_10150188624180131_778040130_12563473_4216100_n.jpg

-

1zbqfsl.jpg

-

2cqdwty.jpg

I don't care what you say - I like it :P

Edited by Nic_A31
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/321677-my-other-new-ceffy/
Share on other sites

Haha a few people have said the same thing...

The sunroof made my first one more appealing to purchase, and I aquired this one by posting a WTB for a Cefiro rolling shell when I was paranoid about the other one being bent...guy messaged me said he had one with a sunroof already, perfect win.

Aye lads, I be holding a proposition for ye,

How about these rim for the boat

kohtan69-img600x450-1269878565euyuu984549.jpg

Couple of hundred, and about 800 by the time its set sail across the seven sea's and landed at my door.

Haha a few people have said the same thing...

The sunroof made my first one more appealing to purchase, and I aquired this one by posting a WTB for a Cefiro rolling shell when I was paranoid about the other one being bent...guy messaged me said he had one with a sunroof already, perfect win.

Aye lads, I be holding a proposition for ye,

How about these rim for the boat

kohtan69-img600x450-1269878565euyuu984549.jpg

Couple of hundred, and about 800 by the time its set sail across the seven sea's and landed at my door.

DO EEEET!!!

I have replicas of these and they look fantastic with the right offset. Pity mine isn't lowered.

I think Dan should sell me his jap dishies, since they've been in his signature for soo long:

haha, so true :yes:

also spacers are for pus-sies, those stich type meshies need more lip on the rear for the goods

check ns.com vip rims are usually floating around

Aquired R32 4 pot calipers, slotted rotors (multi stud pattern), Standard R33 rotors, R33 calipers and R34 5 stud rear hubs w/ bearings.

Pending brake lines and rego before they go on, I test fitted the front calipers with the stockies and 3mm slip on spacers.

IT CLEARS....JUST. The rim somehow free-spins without grinding...but have a look at this pic, Definately not going to risk it, there'd be less than a 0.25mm clearance in there....need bigger spacers or different rims, or wait till I turn the front 5 stud .... but since i got multistud rotors, I can retain 4 stud and just use some slip on spacers in the mean time.

29467_10150194150265131_778040130_12736281_652349_n.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
    • Yes. Autos typically work from the speed sensor on the pinion shaft of the diff. I also think that even if you have a proper speed sensor for the bog manual in the manual box, that the signal it outputs is not compatible with the auto dash anyway. You should consult that manual (the book, not the gearbox).
    • And I just realised that that advice is slightly nonsensical for a GTR, because you need 2 of them. But it is otherwise true.
    • Having had a reasonable look at the car, I'll be able to remove the (one time) rams and retract the hinge (they are held in the down location by a tiny (m3?) sacrificial screw) which will get it physically back in shape. From there if you remove the rams you need a resistor to turn off the airbag light (as Mark said, there are plug in kits and I might go that way because its reversible). And...per all the threads on here, even if you have the resistors to turn off the airbag light, the bonnet light will stay on as it writes to the airbag computer history - that is either replace the airbag controller, reprogam the EPROM (if I can work out how), or remove the globe from the dash. Having seen how sensitive this system is, if I had my time over I'd pre-emptively remove the rams, even on a road car, because this is all a very unnecessary pain in the arse. Reminds me, time to go and have a look at the Fuga too....
×
×
  • Create New...