Jump to content
SAU Community

My Other New Ceffy

Nic_A31

By Nic_A31,
in Four door and wagon builds

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 231
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Nic_A31
Nic_A31

Well it's been a while. My regular supplier dude gave me a GT-R engine bay loom for free as long as I removed it myself. 1-2 hours a day over a few weeks, I extended the Cefiro loom about 800mm, c

Posted Images

Nic_A31 Grand Master

Nic_A31

Posted
  • Author
Posted

On boost is great too.

My 20det on most days would start singing at 2k and make 10psi at 3k, but for everyday driving I found I had to change gears a lot, it bogged down a lot in low revs.

The 25 with r34 turbo starts around 1.9k and 10psi around 2.5k, but even off boost, say 2k through 4k, I can stay in gear without needing to down shift, like going up highway/freeway onramps, stop start traffic, etc. It's much more tail happy too.

It climbs through the revs with a 5kg flywheel about the same as the 20 with a standard flywheel.

I should've just bought this 25 two years ago haha.

Do it man, you won't look back.

  • 2 weeks later...
Nic_A31 Grand Master

Nic_A31

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I hope all you haters are jelly.

vcwcns.jpg

1113uo2.jpg

f0vno6.jpg

Now, stay tuned for fitment of THIS

2s1ofo5.jpg

zlugya.jpg

On teh way in the next container.

Hopefully less hold ups on this one.

Oh and for the record, 25DET still running flawlessly every day, unlike that god damned RB20.

Best thing I ever did getting rid of that dudd.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
Nic_A31 Grand Master

Nic_A31

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Was starting to hear a harsh scraping sound at low speeds, gradually became louder.

First thought was low brake pads/rotors, but then I kind of got my head around the idea that maybe, finally, the shithouse bearings on the JJR hubs had finally thrown in the towel, since they last about 10'000km max.

Brakes were getting a bit low anyway, and I'd already bought pads, so I swapped out my rotors for another set, got mine machined, and after about half an hour of looking around my house, shed, room, and in both cars, I found the brake pads I'd picked up ages ago.

28gtvlu.jpg

Did work at my own house (gravel driveway), and took my sweet ass time.

Was a royal PITA trying to get the pistons in the calipers to retract to fit the new pads over the rotors.

Found the source of that scraping sound too.

5l1dg8.jpg

The other 7 pads were fine, at around 25%

Finished last corner after about 2 hours.

2h560wx.jpg

Ran pads in at local industrial area. They're pretty damn noisy between 15kmp/h and 0, but pedal feels twice as good as it did with standard Sumitomo pads.

JJR wheel bearings are still in tip top condition, 35'000kms and still going strong!

New world record!

Edited by Nic_A31
Dan_J Veteran

Dan_J

Posted
Posted

lol

nick it seems your taking after myself a bit, as you know i did the same to my rears, not too long ago did the same on the front pads!

now the point is to take off my calipers and check them properly at times

whats the deal with these JJR bearings, on paper it says they only last 10,000kms? they better not be pricey to replace

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • GTSBoy
      Freddy Plenum vs Genuine options RB25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • Murray_Calavera
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...