Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just selling my wheels, looking to get some new 17's. will swap

a few gutter rash marks and dents and chips but nothing that cant be fixed no buckles

black with chrome dish/lip, 18x9.5 front (tyres 50%) 18x11.5 rear (tyres 85%)

came off my r32. chasing around $1100 ono

DCP_0369.jpg

DCP_0370.jpg

DCP_0371.jpg

DCP_0363.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/322017-fs-black-with-chrome-dish-wheels/
Share on other sites

I'd say offsets are high 40s even

as 18x9.5/11.5 will not sit on stock front/rears r32gtst guards like that with that size tyre and no negative camber if hewas running offsets lower than +30

either that or they're a 18x8.5/9.5 with high 20s low 30s offset

saying that the wheels look pretty good and cheap asking price, what are the tyre specs? 2??/35/R18

i think the offset was around the +37 mark, or it might have been +47, i cant remember exact but hopefully i get either 2moro or the next day off and will get the exact offset for you.

and 265 and 235 tyre widths with a tad of stretch.

^ pics emailed.

stunn-R, if you also cant see the pics, pm me with your email address and i will send them through.

Hi,

Would you be able to find out what make are the wheels if the stickers are still there?

cheers

Alex and Tim

wheels are altstadt . still have the stickers but are barely visible

exact offset is +42

also, sorry but the rears are actually 10.5" at the rear.

Edited by d_soljah
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did and sync timing with light 
    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
×
×
  • Create New...