Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb26 Heads X3, Damaged Offers?

pointa32
 Share

Recommended Posts

pointa32 Collaborator

pointa32

Posted
Posted

Have got 3 RB26DETT heads sitting around the shed. all 3 are damaged but repairable, would suit machinist or someone in the trade who could repair them and make some money off them.

Head 1) Was brand new old stock that had been stting around since new. I bought it and then threw rod out side of block which damaged the combustion chamber a bit and broke the valves off. Most bits there for it.

Head 2) Head which is slightly warped. Needs straightening

Head 3) Head which has had different cams put in, the clearences for the cams wasnt set properly so it damaged the cam journels and the bering caps etc. Complete but needs line boring

Offers for all 3? or 1? I dont mind. If i get enough interest for parts i will part them out but i dont want to sell a couple little things as it will make it hard for the person who buys the lot.

Pair of Nismo engine mounts, used but still in good nick $150 pair

Tomei Sump baffle, used but was only in engine for a couple months, $150

Also, have got other r32gtr bits and pieces, std exhaust manifolds, heat guards, heaps of other little bits just ask.

Would prefer text or call as i am not on computer very often.

Michael 0438911374

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/322118-rb26-heads-x3-damaged-offers/
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
pointa32 Collaborator

pointa32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

post-61423-1275776647_thumb.jpgpost-61423-1275776326_thumb.jpgpost-61423-1275776126_thumb.jpg

Do you have any pictures you can post up?

Head 1) Complete head, cams there. Cam bearing lobes are scratched a bit due to the clearences not being set properly or something like that. Needs line boring as the cam bearing caps must be too tight on the cams.

Head was meant to be reconditioned when i got the engine, looks very clean etc but needs reshimming after its line bored.

Head 2) Slightly warped but repairable. maybe 2 bent valves after problem with cam belt. missing 1 spring retainer etc but the valve is still in there. Pair of cams that came with that head but after the head is straightened it will need reshimming.

Head 3) Havent got photos of this one atm, It is bare head as i used all of the bits to put into another head i had but i have got nearly all of the bits there to go in it, has got cams to match it. Needs combustion chamber welding up and then will need assembling and re-shimming

Have got some shims there with the heads but generally i did an exchange with my head reconditioner as shims arent cheap when you buy 24 at a time.

Could use all 3 to make 2 good heads, sell one to cover your costs and still have spares left over to sell or keep should anything happen to yours.

I was going to rebuild them but i dont have the time as i have got too many other projects on the go and i want to clear some room for my new project.

As i am on satalite internet it takes forever to upload photos so i have posted a sample of what i have got

  • 4 weeks later...
pointa32 Collaborator

pointa32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

post-61423-1277970054_thumb.jpg

$1000 firm for the whole 3, plus freight.

May seperate the heads if i get enough interest

still got all. Will take $900 for the 3 or $350/head

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
pointa32 Collaborator

pointa32

Posted
  • Author
Posted
post-61423-1277970054_thumb.jpg

still got all. Will take $900 for the 3 or $350/head

Still got all 3 heads, sell all 3 for $600, need them gone as i need the room in the workshop.

Thats right, 3 heads for $600, build 1 or 2 out of the 3 and still have spares left over

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      spot the stagea

      By Duncan · Posted

      roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • AnimalGarage
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...