Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Up for sale is this Microtech LT8, appears to be in pretty good nick. Removed out of a z32 that had it being used in piggyback that was spliced into a VERY hacked up loom so I got it removed and decided to go down the nistune road just to keep things simple. Like the topic says it'll come with the cables/adapters for your computer. All the software you need is free to download off microtechs website (including base tunes for most engines). RRP for this is $1000+ the adapter goes on ebay for like $80 or something stupid.

I'm asking for $500 posted to your door

004.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/322223-fs-microtech-lt8-500-posted/
Share on other sites

Would you sell the adaptor seperatly?

Yeah I'm willing to, going off ebay they're $80+ a piece so my asking price will be $80, if you want the cable that'll be $20. If these sell seperately I will drop the price of the microtech down to $400.If you want postage that'll cost extra, pick up is from ADFA, Campbell

Edited by whoppersandwich

You'll need to get a base tune loaded onto the ecu for an RB25DET (currently configured to VG30DETT). You can either do this yourself, get a workshop to do this (would save time as youll need to hit one up to get it tuned and wired properly anyway) or send it to Microtech for them to load a preset one on. I'm not sure about this but a VG tune could suffice temporarily (6 cylinders/forced induction), even if it could tho youd want it to be tuned ASAP. Apart from that yes it will suit an r33.

will this suit a r33 gtst? if so im interested
Edited by whoppersandwich
You'll need to get a base tune loaded onto the ecu for an RB25DET (currently configured to VG30DETT). You can either do this yourself, get a workshop to do this (would save time as youll need to hit one up to get it tuned and wired properly anyway) or send it to Microtech for them to load a preset one on. I'm not sure about this but a VG tune could suffice temporarily (6 cylinders/forced induction), even if it could tho youd want it to be tuned ASAP. Apart from that yes it will suit an r33.

i have a friend of a friend who would install and configure/tune it for me but he prefers powerfcs ill ask him if he has everything to do it wich he should and wether it suits my setup ill probley only need the chip i should know by tomorrow afternoon

i have a friend of a friend who would install and configure/tune it for me but he prefers powerfcs ill ask him if he has everything to do it wich he should and wether it suits my setup ill probley only need the chip i should know by tomorrow afternoon

Sorry mate microtech has been sold, mods please lock

Edited by whoppersandwich
  • 4 months later...

hey man just out of curiosity can you run this as stand alone on z32 as my mate has a z32 and same computer cheers. did you sort out your bang problems lol 6000rpm and 2nd gear made me laugh lol good job

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...