Jump to content
SAU Community

Apexi Power Fc

bij44p

By bij44p,
in Introduce yourself

 Share

Recommended Posts

bij44p Newbie

bij44p

Posted
Posted

hey fellas im new to this site hoping someine expertise can help me about 8 months ago i invested in the well known apexi power fc not knowing that you CANT just remove the stock maf sensor so im in need of advice in which way to go try get a new computer and sell mine or does someone kno something you can do that i dont cause im in the process of modifying i have already done greddy plenum coil packs 3 inchzorst all way through regular stuff but the stock turbo im pushing 17 psi out of it wen its on the road i think its time for an upgrade but this maf is a problem or can anyone give me feedback on a blow by system and response would be super thanks guys :P:(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/322302-apexi-power-fc/
Share on other sites
Trozzle Grand Master

Trozzle

Posted
Posted

ouch. my brain hurts lol.

Firstly, welcome.

Secondly, the "Forced induction performance" section will help you out a lot as well, probably get a faster reply.

Thirdly, if there's nothing wrong with your PFC and you sort out a new ECU, I'm interested in buying lol

and finally, 17psi out of stock R33 turbo??!!?!?!? f**k me maf sensor won't be your problem soon lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/322302-apexi-power-fc/#findComment-5257019
Share on other sites
mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted
ouch. my brain hurts lol.

Firstly, welcome.

Secondly, the "Forced induction performance" section will help you out a lot as well, probably get a faster reply.

Thirdly, if there's nothing wrong with your PFC and you sort out a new ECU, I'm interested in buying lol

and finally, 17psi out of stock R33 turbo??!!?!?!? f**k me maf sensor won't be your problem soon lol

exactly. the stock turbo becomes a time bomb above 13psi, so if i was you i'd be expecting it to blow any time now. it may last 6 months, it may last a year or it may blow tomoro, but it will blow (unless of course it has been highflowed, then it will be fine).

also at 17psi on the stock turbo you are probably getting out of it's effeciency range. you'd be able to drop it down to 15psi and be making a similar amount of power but be somewhat safer on the turbo (still not ideal though).

as for the ecu, one option is to go a z32 afm. they are the same size as the rb25 one but read in a slightly different resolution, so you will be able to get up around 250 or 260kw from it before it starts to max out.

oh and welcome

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/322302-apexi-power-fc/#findComment-5257049
Share on other sites
bij44p Newbie

bij44p

Posted
  • Author
Posted

hey thanks for the reply guys :D

i am currently lookin into the z32 maf but wat does it need to hook up the the stock maf loom ?

and the turbo thing... its got a dual stage runs 6psi low boost and 17 psi high boost it made 189.7 at the treads with stock exhaust yumcha fmic dual stage boost cont and apexi power fc is gunna be retuned in two months with new fmic full 3 inch zorst new coil packs (custom plenum greddy ) hi mount turbo but dunno wat turbo yet any sugestions for size ?

and thanks for the ideas and replys guys :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/322302-apexi-power-fc/#findComment-5261830
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GoHashiriya
      R34 Skyline Sunroof Won't Tilt/Vent

      By GoHashiriya · Posted

      Actually, that's not entirely true. It's also the same motor in the 1st gen Nissan Cube but they're rare as hen's teeth.  
    • Duncan
      Unknown sound similar to BOV on positive boost with partial throttle RB26

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yeah it is always worth testing and balancing actuators out of the box, just set the pressure regulator on a compressor very low (eg 5 psi) and increase it slowly to see when they both move.....unfortunately while you may be able to adjust the length of the actuator rod to minimise any difference, the actual pressure they move from is not adjustable so you need a well matched pair. And yes, the VCAM is probably contributing; the earlier in the rev range they come on boost and the slower the revs build (I think your demo was in 5th), the more you notice it.  Driving at WOT through 1st, 2nd, 3rd etc you will probably never hear it as any shuffling starts and is over super quickly
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Shoota's R33 GT-R RB30/26

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      oh they were with that motor, you need to remove the engine to change the spark plugs (don't have to, but it does make it easier)
    • nouveau_poor
      Unknown sound similar to BOV on positive boost with partial throttle RB26

      By nouveau_poor · Posted

      I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • GoHashiriya
      R34 Skyline Sunroof Won't Tilt/Vent

      By GoHashiriya · Posted

      I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
×
×
  • Create New...