Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guest RedLineGTR

personally get something cheap and less powerfull...accidents will always happen in the early states or driving and also getting used to driving in general and different conditions. Give it a couple of years in lets say a bluebird and then you would also have some more money saved up by that time. Maybe you could get a r34gtt or a basic r33gtst and have money for mods etc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32265-my-first-car/#findComment-647440
Share on other sites

thats alot of power for someone with hardly any experiance. Plus i dont think you'd be able to afford a skyline ( tires are not cheap for those rim sizes, insurance, oil, petrol ).

Im getting an r31 gts-x or mabye even one of the 3ltr skylines.

the r33 rb25de puts out around 140KW, same as an r31 GTS2

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32265-my-first-car/#findComment-647446
Share on other sites

Get an older R31 and build up your rating a bit. They're a good car (if in good condition) and have enough power for just getting used to learning to drive, etc. You might put a small few dents and things in the first year anyhow.

After that, you can always just sell it and get the R33 if thats what you still really want.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32265-my-first-car/#findComment-647453
Share on other sites

I'm going to be importing an R32 GTS-t soon, as I get my L's in July. My dad too pulls in the 'dosh', but at least I'm paying for insurance. 3rd party too, so I'm definitely going to be extra cautious. I'll keep the speed for the track ;)

One of the advantages of having a Skyline for a first car is that they are known for handling well, but if you start to speed, there is a high chance that you're going to crash with the level of experience you have.

Just try and keep your head beneath the clouds, and don't think that you're invincible.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32265-my-first-car/#findComment-647533
Share on other sites

my opinion, dont get a real "flashy" (eg skyline) car for your first,, i had my first car written off (i wasnt at fault) and my second car was pretty close to written off, then i got my Skyline, this was after 18 or so months of having my P's, cos i was still learning to drive, (still am really)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32265-my-first-car/#findComment-647590
Share on other sites

I had my first car written off too (shockingly within 21 days of having it)!

but these days the s13/s14 are within quite an affordable price range. Isnt the '94 or so 180SX for around the 10-12k mark? I would think thats a cheaper option plus you get used to the characteristics of a turbo car?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32265-my-first-car/#findComment-647688
Share on other sites

I wrote my first car off within 2 weeks of having it :( :( So I was really glad it was just an old sh1tbox of a mini! ;) and not a Skyline!

Another young driver on here has just written off his GTR, which I understand is the second car he's written off...

Of course everyone wants a nice powerful motor for their first car, but be careful...

I beleive that statistics show you're way more likely to write off your first car than any other...:D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32265-my-first-car/#findComment-647768
Share on other sites

yeah good point but i rather get a blue bird then a r31

I've owned 2 Bluebirds, and they both went to the great rust heap in the sky.

Bluebirds are hard to find in reasonable condition.

When you've had a look at 20 or 30 of them, you'll start to realise that it's very hard to find one without rust.

The R31 is newer, more comfortable, has efi, and is easy to modify when you decide that you want more power. :(

....and jusitnfox and predator.... i'm older!! :Oops:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32265-my-first-car/#findComment-648028
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did you panel beat the dents or have you tried to repair this only using filler?  Is your sanding block soft/flexible and is following the shape of the panel rather then just knocking down the high points? 
    • I haven't knocked them down yet. I think I made the repair more complex than it should have been. I had rock chips combined with waviness and dents and I tackled it all in one because it was near each other and just end up wasting a bunch of bog lol. I'll knock down those areas and see how I go. And yep what you are saying at the end is correct. I think I might be sanding the top of a steep hill then my sanding block falls into the dent and gets rid of the guidecoat if that makes sense. Though shouldnt unless I'm covering too big of an area with not a long enough block. I'll try something new and provide some updates. Getting there though! Thanks as always.  
    • Yeah makes sense, hard to comment on your situation without seeing what your doing. I was talking generally before, I would not be looking to randomly create low spots with a hammer to then have to fill them.  It's hard without seeing what your doing, it sounds like you are using the guide coat to identify low spots, as you're saying the panel is still wavy. I don't see how you're not ending up with patches of guide coat remaining in a wavy panel? Once the high spots are knocked down to the correct level, surely to have a wavy panel you need low spots. And those low spots would have guide coat still in them?
    • So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy.  In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?
    • I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
×
×
  • Create New...