Jump to content
SAU Community

V35 Replacement Bulb

dodes47
 Share

Recommended Posts

dodes47 Community Regular

dodes47

Posted
Posted

Hey Guys

One of my headlight (standard xenon) just blew last night. I've already looked up on how to change it, but i need to know what sort of replacement bulb i should buy.

Can it be bought from repco/supercheap auto, or is it something i'm going to have to spend a fortune on? :yes:

Cheers

Doddy

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/322742-v35-replacement-bulb/
Share on other sites
rs73 Grand Master

rs73

Posted
Posted

if it's the D2R or either the D2S bulb you mean, they are expensive, expect above $100 in stores EACH side.

They are meant to last a lifetime of the vehicle or at least a very very long time compared to std halogens.

you can find them on ebay for cheaper price and you may wanna consider buying a spare because if one side fails it'll be likely the other side on its way out too, and with all the hassle in getting to the bulbs, it pays to do both side at the same time.

I think I picked up mine for about $90 a pair from ebay.

rs73 Grand Master

rs73

Posted
Posted

oh and on ebay you can find all sorts of colour temp rating, 6000k above gives you white to blueish tint

i would recommned NOT getting anything above 6000k as i've driven with blue-ish looking headlihgts bulbs before during my younger 'rice' age in the past and after an hour or two driving it is really tiring for the eye. anything above 8000K and the light output start to suffer due to the colour hue start to shift towards purple.

now you start to understand why all good and proper driving sunglasses are tinted either grey or brown, not tinted blue! we're human with human eye, not Vulcan or Klingons.

mine is 4500k the standard oem 'white' with maximum light output, sometimes you can find 5000 or 5500K, but easier to get 6000K these days they're more common and the light output is still not too bad compared to 4500K or 5000K.

dodes47 Community Regular

dodes47

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hang on a minute, i forgot to ask

The bulb that died is the low beam, so would that make it a D2S or a D2R?

Oh and all the links you guys gave pointed to HID ones. I don't really understand the difference between HID and Xenons. Can someone enlighten me? :D

Frank350GT Rising Star

Frank350GT

Posted
Posted
Hang on a minute, i forgot to ask

The bulb that died is the low beam, so would that make it a D2S or a D2R?

Oh and all the links you guys gave pointed to HID ones. I don't really understand the difference between HID and Xenons. Can someone enlighten me? :ermm:

If you have 2003 head light, it will be D2R

If you have 2006+ projector it will be D2S.

On cars HID=XEON. May different for other area which I don't know.

Frank

Cra-Z-Boy Collaborator

Cra-Z-Boy

Posted
Posted
Hang on a minute, i forgot to ask

The bulb that died is the low beam, so would that make it a D2S or a D2R?

Oh and all the links you guys gave pointed to HID ones. I don't really understand the difference between HID and Xenons. Can someone enlighten me? :happy:

Automotive HID lamps are commonly called "xenon headlamps", though they are actually metal halide lamps that contain xenon gas

prdreilly Contributor

prdreilly

Posted
Posted
to access the globe you need to either :

a) remove the wheel guard shroud

or

b) remove the whole front bumper

As above, then at the back of the headlight, top one for low beam, there is a big round plastic circle lid thingy, that you just turn anti clockwise to open. Then turn the ignitor plug to remove (it is attached to the back of the globe) then remove the spring wires that hold the bulb in place, they are like two metal wires that are spring loaded. Should make sense when you are in there. Then pull bulb out.

dodes47 Community Regular

dodes47

Posted
  • Author
Posted
to access the globe you need to either :

a) remove the wheel guard shroud

or

b) remove the whole front bumper

I think i'd rather remove the front bumper since i think the wheel guard method involves jacking up the car and taking off the wheel for easier access.

Thanks for the feedbacks

johnr Enthusiast

johnr

Posted
Posted
May pay to go down to your local mechanic,

get them to stick it on a hoist and try from there. Taking off the front bumper and then refitting it perfectly is DEFINITELY not an easy task.

Try this place in the US for lights and globes - they are awesome to deal with and have excellent products and much cheaper than here:

http://store.iJDMTOY.com/

johnr Enthusiast

johnr

Posted
Posted
Try this place in the US for lights and globes - they are awesome to deal with and have excellent products and much cheaper than here:

http://store.iJDMTOY.com/

Oh and I forgot to mention DON"T remove the front bar - you will not get it back on correctly. Take the front wheels off and only remove the front guard protector - there is no need to remove the back one. Also there is no need to undo the screws at the bottom of the front one as you can get access to the lights by just pushing it aside. The only screw on the back protector you need to remove is the one at the top of the guard nearest the front protector. It is quite easy to do once you have done it - good luck!

dodes47 Community Regular

dodes47

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Oh and I forgot to mention DON"T remove the front bar - you will not get it back on correctly. Take the front wheels off and only remove the front guard protector - there is no need to remove the back one. Also there is no need to undo the screws at the bottom of the front one as you can get access to the lights by just pushing it aside. The only screw on the back protector you need to remove is the one at the top of the guard nearest the front protector. It is quite easy to do once you have done it - good luck!

Gee thanks for the warning. Glad i haven't done it yet.

And thanks for the link. I think i'll give it a go.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • GTSBoy
      DeAgostini 1/8 scale BNR32 Nissan Skyline GT-R Nismo

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That's hilariously putrid!
    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
×
×
  • Create New...