Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 155
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

nicknick - thanks for the timeslip (what about your car?) Also was this done in the gtr you were selling for $15K on here in the last week or so? Without being too much of a synic that timeslip could have been for a rail that missed the start then got back on it 3/4 track!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32287-10sec-gtrs/page/2/#findComment-654242
Share on other sites

K - i jumped the gun the car pic hadn't been posted yet. So thats your car that is in HPI GTR Special #4. That article supports your story that it still has the original box. I think you will have to admit you will need some luck keepin it together if you plan to run 10's.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32287-10sec-gtrs/page/2/#findComment-654249
Share on other sites

nicknick that is a sweet lookin car - However I am suprised that the box lasted longer than the twin plate HKS clutch. I'll let it go with respect to your 1/4 mile run but I will say that is the slowest time I have seen for that kph (I understand your clutch was f##ked, it just seems odd that you got drive in higher gears to obtain the terminal speed). Gettin back to your comparison of the rex boxes, aren't they the weekest part of subaru's driveline eg 2 -3 good launches and they are stuffed. Anyhow, lookin at your mods you should run low11's with ease. I wish you the best at the track in the future!

PS: What was the go with that 15K gtr you needed to sell to buy a house but now you have this beast?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32287-10sec-gtrs/page/2/#findComment-654537
Share on other sites

dean from upimports did the work, some of it, i dont know who BMT is,i know you think its odd that it run a poor time running 186kph, imagine my face when i saw the time sheet. i sold the stock gtr quick so i can invest in a good property oportunity, doesnt mater i can always buy another one for run around.

at to BLITZ i live in sydney i bought it from melbourne, that was a fun drive, think i clocked it 3 times on the way back, twice on the straight and once uphill, first time ever i a car. thanks benjiman74 for the support, hopefull i get my time that i want so i can finally have the paper to prove it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32287-10sec-gtrs/page/2/#findComment-654792
Share on other sites

its a T78-33D the biggest of the T78's, when the box was rebuilt like i mentioned, my mate told me there is no reason the box shouldnt hold the power, its been holding it till now and it was perfect inside( he said like new) i mean that should say something about the box after 9 years of driving. and for the low 11's comment, i think it should be possible for a mid to low 11 hopefully. we wont know till we try,...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32287-10sec-gtrs/page/2/#findComment-655361
Share on other sites

According to the time slip, you got a 60ft of 2.393..... Either your getting heaps of wheel spin or she's bogging down....

Either way, a good launch should see you well into the elevens......

What rwkws she pumping out???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32287-10sec-gtrs/page/2/#findComment-656936
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...