Need Help, Turbo Intake Pipe Closing Under Boost

[manuel]

My dilema

Have my car tuned to 254.7kw atw with standard air box and panel filter

On high boost 18psi, the intake pipe is closing and choking the turbo. At 10psi all is fine.

The symptoms of this is strong power up to 5800rpm and then boost drops from 18psi to 7psi at7000rpm.

Took the car to Yavuz at unigroup and he plug the lap top in before taking car for road tune. At 5800rpm power drops of dramatically and car cannot hold boost. Yavuz has informed me that the intake pipe is getting hot and as a result the rubber pipe is vacumming shut.

I have modified the pipe with a 3inch steel pipe on the inside as per the tech thread on SAU.

This modification is not working for me so i need other recommendations to stop small bit of rubber in front of turbo vacumming shut.

One option i thought of was installing a metal wire spring for extra support but i dont know where to source it.

Any help or ideas welcome.

[dori34]

should've just went full steel intake pipe dude.

[gotRICE?]

should've just went full steel intake pipe dude.

This seems the most logical to me.

Pissing around modding a stock rubber tube.. or buy an off the shelf replacement..

[Mr.Massive]

Just buy a metal or silicone intake pipe. I bought a metal intake off ebay for $130 i think, or you can get a silicone one, which i believe ministry of bass has for $105.

[manuel]

<br />should've just went full steel intake pipe dude.<br /><br />

<br /><br /><br />

Might buy yours, giv us your number

Manny 0406747726, ill call ya

[hypergear]

Get a 3inch half meter long pipe, 1x 3 to 2.5 inch 45 degrees reducer, and a pod filter.

Remove all the crap that is connected to factory intake pipe: BOV metal pipe and breather metal pipe. (lol funny how Nissan makes metal bov and breather pipes)

Connect the reducer to the turbo, 3inch metal pipe to reducer, pod filter to metal pipe.

Then:

Move your AFM to cooler pipe, and BOV before the AFM. If you do want to use stock BOV you need to connect a one way valve in the vacuum hose that connects to it.

With the breather just run a rubber hose and connect it to a catch can.

Job done.

[manuel]

Thanks for your advice Stao,

I would like to keep the car looking as original as possible, want to keep standard air box.

I might get a custom pipe made up and use rubber hose to join to existing breather and blow off valve pipe. I will also paint the alloy custom pipe black. Im trying hard to keep the car looking stock and unmolested to avoid defects and to keep with the originality of the car.

This shitty rubber stock intake pipe is letting me down.

[manuel]

Problem Fixed, No more vacumme problem

Went to Just Jap racing and spoke to the boys. They assured me that the silicone aftermarket intake pipe product they sell will handle 250kw and beyond without vacumming shut.

Inspected the product and it looks well made, has metal spring support in the centre and also rubber reinforcement around the two ports for blow off valve assembly. They guarantee that it wont shut under heavy boost or your money back.

Installation: Spent a few hours installing the intake into car with my standard air box. With a little trimming required of the twin rubber port and also some trimming required from the air flow meter end, the intake goes in perfectly and looks totaly factory. initially its a tight squeeze but fits well and looks very standard with stock air box.

Result: Car revs hard and holds boost all the way to redline, no boost drop, hesitation, just pure driving bliss. All problems fixed, highly recommend this modification, dont waste your time modifying your stock intake pipe as it will poo itself with strong boost levels and decent turbo. its to old and rubber gets to soft when hot.

JJR pipe looks like this one but its black inside and out. They charged me $170 for it, i think you can get cheaper else where but i didnt have time to shop around.

Edited June 2, 2010 by manuel

[gotRICE?]

Installed pics?

[Ruffels]

do you have before and after dyno results to backup these claims? "Car revs hard and holds boost all the way to redline, no boost drop, hesitation"

or is it just the feeling you get from driving it now?

[SargeRX8]

do you have before and after dyno results to backup these claims? "Car revs hard and holds boost all the way to redline, no boost drop, hesitation"

or is it just the feeling you get from driving it now?

He wouldn't need to show you a dyno sheet. Uni group said his pipe was shutting and choking the turbo. His car didn't gain more power, its just running the way it should be.

I got a metal intake pipe and am having stalling issues. 99% sure its due to the way the BOV return is lined up. Look at the way it is in the silicone pipe, it points to the turbo and is very far from the AFM. I need to have my pipe modified.

[manuel]

do you have before and after dyno results to backup these claims? "Car revs hard and holds boost all the way to redline, no boost drop, hesitation"

or is it just the feeling you get from driving it now?

Check the GCG turbo thread for my dyno graph. When i got car tuned unigroup told me that the intake pipe was closing on the dyno. When engine gets hot, the rubber goes very soft and then the problem begins. On the road , you get 5mins of driving before it starts running like poo because of intake.

We also took the car for a road diagnostic and unigroup picked up the problem with his lap top plugged into my PFC. Solicon pipe has fixed all my problems, car runs, idles and performs perfect. Unigroup all the way.