Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I think my swaybar bushes are stuffed on the front.

Something rattles when I go over bumps.

Does anyone know if R33 GTR have the same ones?

I have fitted whiteline swaybars to both front and rear and used the ones designated to fit a 33GTR

Front ones fit perfectly and the rears fit but the "bend" in the rear sway bar appears to be very close to the mounting to the body and looks like it may damage the bushes. This may be because the rear track on the stagea is wider.

However two years on they are still functioning fine and bushes look exactly as they dd when we fitted them

Car is a series one RS Four

Edited by RSVFOURUK

yep. as above.

the front is the same as r33gtr but the stagea rear is about 50mm wider. you can run the rear on stagea but the end links won't be verticle

quick edit: you can also run s14/15 rear sway bar but it will also be too narrow

Edited by M I K E
  • 1 month later...

Car Torque in SA have had custom rear bars made to suit C34 Stagea RS4 - see my thread for info, but the GT-R bar really doesn't fit properly in the rear (I couldn't make it fit at all - it was too narrow to mount to the body).

should fit rs4 rear, at least alexcim had a gtr rear swaybar fitted to his old stag. there are pics somewhere on here if you search hard enough showing pics of the swaybar link angles etc and a bit of a discussion about it. don't know what effect it has on performance (if any) though

  • 1 month later...

I ended up not needing the bushes.

I just had to tighten up one of the links. No more rattles over bumps :P

I could sell the SuperPro D bushes and Nolethane Adjustable links for the Stagea or R33 GTR front sway bar at a discount if anyone wants them ?

Best contact is: [email protected]

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...