Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys/girls

over the last few weeks my car has started to hesitate under full load, when its higher up in the rev range

quick mod list

PFC

stock turbo .8 bar

splitfires

z32

fuel pump

new plugs at .8

120km

now im not 100% sure that its vavle floata but its all i can think of, as ive experiance bad coils and it feels different,

it makes a funny noise sort of like brrbrrbbrrbrrr brrr, if u can imagine what that sounds like.

can valve float lead to other problems in the engine apart from bad performance,

i dont want to have to fix it as im about 75% the way thru a 26 rwd build and dont want to spend on the 25,

so does this soind like valve float

is there an easy way to fix

is there an easy wat to diagnose

is there going to be further issues if i dont fix it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323571-valva-float/
Share on other sites

if it is valve float you run the risk of the pistons hitting the valves and destroying the engine. though you are unlikely to get valve float at .8bar on the stock turbo unless the valve springs are shagged.

wrap some electrical tape around the rubber part of the splitfires just to rule out that its arcing out, does the problem dissapear with less boost? what is the PFC reporting knock at?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323571-valva-float/#findComment-5274706
Share on other sites

I have been told my 26 is suffering from valve float by my tuner. He believes he has diagnosed it based upon the fact that the motor is sluggish to make any more power after 5500rpm on high boost (18psi), and pings unusually when more timing is thrown in. The end result is quality mods (cams, GTSS', fuel, ecu, z32's, splitfires, cooler, etc) not meeting their expected peak power figures. Need to change the springs to overcome the issue.

What does your tuner have to say? What do your dyno graphs look like? Is it making expected power up high?

I don't feel anything unusual driving the car - certainly no hesitation as you have described, no knock, and pulls very hard. Not sure if this info is what you're after, but hope it helps.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323571-valva-float/#findComment-5276353
Share on other sites

no knock at all,

havent run at lower boost, if i turn my avcr off and just run the waste gate i still get .8 bar

apart from the coils arking out, what else could it be

poor spark comes from more than just failing coils.

The coil pack loom is also another place to look. Corroded/poor connections etc etc. If its a S1 motor the igitor box (black rear end of the head) could be failing as well.

Even things like fuel pump voltage, blocked up fuel filter etc cause all kinds of hesitational issues.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323571-valva-float/#findComment-5276384
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • I neglected to respond to this previously. Get it up to 100 psi, and then you'll be OK.
    • I agree with everything else, except (and I'm rethinking this as it wasn't setup how my brain first though) if the sensor is at the end of a hose which is how it has been recommended to isolate it from vibrations, then if that line had a small hole in, I could foresee potentially (not a fluid dynamic specialist) the ability for it to see a lower pressure at the sensor. But thinking through, said sensor was in the actual block, HOWEVER it was also the sensor itself that broke, so oil pressure may not have been fully reaching the sensor still. So I'm still in my same theory.   However, I 100% would be saying COOL THE OIL DOWN if it's at 125c. That would be an epic concern of mine.   Im now thinking as you did Brad that the knock detection is likely due to the bearings giving a bit more noise as pressure dropped away. Kinkstah, drop your oil, and get a sample of it (as you're draining it) and send it off for analysis.
    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
×
×
  • Create New...