Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well I figure its about time I did a little update on the R30 I brought 6months or so back.

Im not posting any photos yet as I want to do a before and after piece.

however I have since getting it done the following..

-stripped and replaced the interior and fitted recaro seats

-added gauges oil,water,volts

-fitted blitz SBC ID 2 boost controller

-facelift front, all but the bonnet

-fitted 17” original goods wheels

-exhaust changed 3’ right through

-new intake and filter

-stripped all sound deadening all 32.3kgs worth!

-fitted genuine mirrors

-fitted R32 brakes (still figuring out the best option for tie rods)

-s13 coilovers front

-r33 coilovers rear

-10mm rear wheel spacers (when you see pics you will understand)

-standard side skirts fitted

-two tone paint

Also on the weekend I did a dyno day just thought id see how she was going..

Now the engine is 2.2ltr has forged pistons a full metal head gasket plus a Vg30 turbo with large intercooler a bosch 650hp fuel pump and a mines computer it has standard injectors..

It made 171.5rwkw@ 14.3 psi but was starting to lean so it could not run higher than that the tuner said with bigger injectors it would easily go way past there saying it felt very strong..

How ever im happy with this power for now it wont put the power to the road until 3rd anyway and am running 235s!

Marc

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323858-update/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 66
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

How big you want the injectors Marc?

I have a NEW set of 570cc Siemens Deka injectors I probably wont be using, but need a 14mm O'ring fuel rail to fit them.

Also 6 x 460cc S2 RX7 and connector plugs to suit that you can have real cheap.

Your stock injectors are 375cc.

"a full metal head gasket"

Your gunna be sooooorrry!

Where is your safety valve, for when you detonate for lean out, or a bad dose of fuel, or whatever?

D.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323858-update/#findComment-5278213
Share on other sites

How big you want the injectors Marc?

I have a NEW set of 570cc Siemens Deka injectors I probably wont be using, but need a 14mm O'ring fuel rail to fit them.

Also 6 x 460cc S2 RX7 and connector plugs to suit that you can have real cheap.

Your stock injectors are 375cc.

"a full metal head gasket"

Your gunna be sooooorrry!

Where is your safety valve, for when you detonate for lean out, or a bad dose of fuel, or whatever?

D.

what who when where? lol gasket was prefitted i didnt put it on the car it seems fine i think ill be fine..

im not sure about injectors at this point ill probably just get 510cc mitsubishi ones but not sure just yet it all depends on if i want to go further with it which at this point i dont.

iv got the car weighing 1073kgs with me in it so that plus 171kw its very quick imo..

as for pics they will come but i want to finish it first so i can do before and after

marc

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323858-update/#findComment-5278531
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

AAAAAH this car!! I know it well...Randy from Nissco (in Halbert St Bayswater) built it with his son Vincent (orig owner a few years back)

They commented that it was one of the only FJ's they had to chain down on the dyno as it kept trying to jump off the rollers! Came on boost VERY hard.

WOW this looks so much better too... what did you use for the lower half paint? details???

I really like the rims, they look like what was going around in 1984. What $$$ you chasing?

Get it finished for the Skyline Nationals too, only a few months to go. September.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323858-update/#findComment-5326988
Share on other sites

thanks guys.

i will have it finished if i can get the TI bumper and a bonnet im chasing come on people help me out here lol

also the wheels are 17" Original goods "Bansai" good tyres 4x114.3 +11 offset from memory

i want 1000 with the tires

the wheels are mint

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323858-update/#findComment-5327182
Share on other sites

OK i forgot about the Ti bumper, its out the back still.

I'll pass on the wheels, I dont want anything bigger than 16"

its all good have you got a Ti bumper rear have you? lets do a deal!! cheap please as it will need to make its way to me in melb!.....

its was not an r31 front it was of a prarie or such i think it went in the bin as soon as the car got to me!

Edited by FJ20DR30
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323858-update/#findComment-5327978
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I neglected to respond to this previously. Get it up to 100 psi, and then you'll be OK.
    • I agree with everything else, except (and I'm rethinking this as it wasn't setup how my brain first though) if the sensor is at the end of a hose which is how it has been recommended to isolate it from vibrations, then if that line had a small hole in, I could foresee potentially (not a fluid dynamic specialist) the ability for it to see a lower pressure at the sensor. But thinking through, said sensor was in the actual block, HOWEVER it was also the sensor itself that broke, so oil pressure may not have been fully reaching the sensor still. So I'm still in my same theory.   However, I 100% would be saying COOL THE OIL DOWN if it's at 125c. That would be an epic concern of mine.   Im now thinking as you did Brad that the knock detection is likely due to the bearings giving a bit more noise as pressure dropped away. Kinkstah, drop your oil, and get a sample of it (as you're draining it) and send it off for analysis.
    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
×
×
  • Create New...