Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wondering what peoples thoughts are on this.

I will be winding the boost up on my built 26 engine in a couple of weeks, just dont know if im better of geting a bleed valve and dyno it that way or buying a electronic solenoid and doing it through the ecu.

Havn't heard much about the boost control setup of the vipec ecu hoping someone with some knowledge can fill me in.

The engine has recently been run in and has -5's fitted with all the supporting mods.

Im looking to run up around 20-24 psi

Edited by Mark-32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324379-vipec-v44-boost-control/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 64
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

i havent had any problems with it, mine gains 1psi in the midrange before falling back to the set PSI by redline, though i am running a single with external gate and havent fiddled with the finer points of the boost control (you can set the mac valves duty for every 1000rpm or which ever intervals you want to set it up as within the maps total cell limit)

i havent had any problems with it, mine gains 1psi in the midrange before falling back to the set PSI by redline, though i am running a single with external gate and havent fiddled with the finer points of the boost control (you can set the mac valves duty for every 1000rpm or which ever intervals you want to set it up as within the maps total cell limit)

Is there any particular solenoid i need to run with the vipec?

if you put the switch inline with the valve to turn it off so you run actuator pressure yes.

This may seem like a dumb question but what does the 'mac' stand for when you say mac valve?

Im assuming a mac valve is just an electronic boost control solenoid....? And its this that gets wired directly to the ecu and the ecu controls it and does the rest?

And if I run the in cabin missle type switch inline with the valve i could turn the valve on or off with the switch?

On being the high boost setting, and off being stock boost?

Sorry for all the questions just trying to nut it all out!

I forgot to ask will this be ok to use with two wastegates? 2860 -5's? Just had a look on the vipec website and there are two types of mac valves?

If you don't mind me asking...what would i expect to pay for unit + tune? (allow plenty for worst possible circumstances)...

I went to a rather big name workshop the other day and was greeted with blank stares when i asked if they tune vipecs....but i really want to jump on board....

Aiden

You can use a R33 GTST RB25DET standard solinoid with the vipec also.

You can use the RB26DETT solinoid as well. (better then rb25)

I tuned a car last night, it was using a solinoid that looks like the mac valve but it was stolen from a cheap chineese boost controller and it worked fine.

The car was running a 6psi spring in the external gate and i was able to get it to push out 26psi of boost with the vipec boost control.

Also if you want to have dual boost settings its very easy to setup, you setup a switch and wire it to Digital input 5 or 6 and then setup the vipec to run 2 maps for boost control which is changed just by flicking the switch.

Very simple to setup and works very good.

i wasnt aware that it had dual boost maps. Though it ties up a digital input which on the plugin version there is only 6 from memory and they are useful for other things like launch control/flat shifting/switching fuel maps. installing a switch inline with the valves signal wires means you just run gate pressure when the valve isnt powered (if that is what you are after in your dual boost setup.)

i wasnt aware that it had dual boost maps. Though it ties up a digital input which on the plugin version there is only 6 from memory and they are useful for other things like launch control/flat shifting/switching fuel maps. installing a switch inline with the valves signal wires means you just run gate pressure when the valve isnt powered (if that is what you are after in your dual boost setup.)

Yeah I think thats the way to go by just running the inline switch to the valve. Seems pretty simple.

Can anyone explain how the launch controll works? Never looked into this function but Im very interested in this as my rb26 is converted to rwd and this could be very usefull for me.

I would also like to set this up at the same time i retune the car to wind the boost up.

I must say I was already impressed with the vipec unit after my initial run in tune. It continues to impress me and i have only ever used power fc before and not bagging the pfc but compared to the vipec they are worlds apart.

Any info on the launch control setup would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers for the info guys.

you need to connect the switch at the top of the clutch pedal up to a digital input on the ECU (get someone electrically minded to do this it requires some rewiring of 12v supply etc), you can then setup the launch control/flat shifting to work when the clutch is pressed. my launch control activates after the clutch is held for 10 seconds, and my flat shifting activates over 3500rpm with more than 50% throttle. all of the settings can be changed to suit how you want it to operate.

pretty sure the vipec's launch control is based on speed. As for flat shift, I only know of the bosch shift sensor setup.

you need to connect the switch at the top of the clutch pedal up to a digital input on the ECU (get someone electrically minded to do this it requires some rewiring of 12v supply etc), you can then setup the launch control/flat shifting to work when the clutch is pressed. my launch control activates after the clutch is held for 10 seconds, and my flat shifting activates over 3500rpm with more than 50% throttle. all of the settings can be changed to suit how you want it to operate.

if you have speed inputs from the front wheel/s you can do traction control with the launch control, my launch control is activated (armed ready to go) after the clutch is held for 10 seconds, then you can mash your foot to the floor and drop the clutch.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And if you want more power, more reliably, and cheaper, go get the Aussie RB... The 4L Barra and put that in instead.
    • No cats will keep discolouring the rear bar. Sends white paint a weird yellow stain. Cut and polish normally gets it out, but you'll be doing that every fortnight I found.
    • Both heads will be equally reliable or unreliable depending on what you do to them.  Stock the RB26 head will flow more. You have access to the stock intake ITB manifold on the RB26 cheaply which flows really well(1000hp+).   Arguably more aftermarket support for RB26, though in Aus we love our RB30 SOHC heads too.    The only downsides to the RB26 head is if you have a VL commodore and want to keep the SOHC look.  Where you may have an issue is drilling out the rb30 block for the bigger head studs but if you are building a big power motor you'd probably put bigger studs on the SOHC head too.  This is just about finding a good machine shop, sometimes easier said than done.  RB30 head worked can make big power just like a Rb26 head, so really it actually more comes down to what your preference is for your car.  People now even making billet versions of both.
    • 2630s work perfectly well. There is something to be said for just using the 30 head, as it saves all the pain of the conversion, still makes tons of power, still sounds cool, etc etc. 2630 will obviously make more power again, but the differences are not stupidly big. It really depends on whether you're racing for sheep stations or not. If it's dead serious, then it's a 26 head. If it's just for fun, it could go either way. But the 26 head and the effort to get it set up, etc etc, is part of the fun.
    • I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani Refurbed astra pump thats the cover for it in the boot I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
×
×
  • Create New...