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i got parts that are taking up roomm, need them gone asap Cheapp

R32 gtst bonnet, type-m blue, $50 good condition

R32 gtst bonnet, Primer, $50 Good condition

R32 gtst bonnet, choped lip, lip needs to be filled up, $50

R32 gtst rear cradle, diff, brakes, calipers, all arms,, handbrake cable, evrything, ectt $150

R32 gtst front suspension thing, caster arm, hubs, calipers, discs, front left and right, 5stud, missing 1 caliper, $150 for both front

R33 gtst front suspension thing, caster arms, top arm things, hubs, calipers, discs, left and right, complete, 5stud $250 for both front

R33 gtst Manual converion, Clutch pedal, Brake Pedal, Clutch master cylinder, Lines, Clutch thing on gearbox that moves lol, $100

R33 gtst Diff with manual tailshaft $150

s13 front 4stud hubs x2 left and right, with 4 discs, $50

S13 rolling shell $700

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s15 conversion front guards

has side skirts, 1 extra

apexi suspension,

tinted back lights

R33 gtst brake master cylinder

Drift handbrake button thing

Drift steering wheel

Full black interior

All sound deadner removed, and air con things

r32 m-spec seats

front slotter rotors

d-max pads at front

no rear bar, no bonnet, no front bar, no front light, no enigne no box, its in diffrent colours, blue, red, black, white

was a project drift car but lost intrest, selling evrything

Skyline R32.4 $2000 roling shell

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R32 with R34 front end, Wide body

Big wide rear guards

Big wide front guards

full bodykit looks tuff

half in primer hand in that original white suff on it

the back guards are almost done blending into car

front end will need to be adjusted, just roughly on,

got 1 left r34 gtr headlight, but clips damaged

no engine no box,

got manual converion for it, clutch, master cylinder ectt

front slotted rotors, fat ones

no seats, most of interior is ther, just little bits and pieces missing,

Suits project, lots intrest

mostly body work needed, rub back and primer and paint wateva colour

Melbourne, western suburbs

0411980023

need evrything gone asap,

Also got

R33 s2 dash airbag, good condition $100

R33 s2 Dash, mint condition $100

R33 gtst rear bar reo, $20

also got

R31/vl Full locker diff, 4:11 gear ratio, complete discs/calipers/ suspension evrything, was on a r31 drag car that pulled 11z full street trim and done lil wheelies =]

any pics of this(R33 gtst front suspension thing, caster arms, top arm things, hubs, calipers, discs, left and right, complete)?

got no camera atm but it looks the same as evry other r33 front suspension thing, not shore what people call it but its connected to the k-frame and stuts, the complete thing lol

Hey mate would you sell the 32 driver side front hub? Thanks

sorry mate, i want to sell it complete, i want to get rid of all of it, dont want parts lying around

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    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
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