Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

its all finally coming along with my suspension needs. having just sourced some drag radials and in the midst of combining a soft shock/spring combo and then finally ordering a 1.5LSD, ive started to think about what i can do to make sure drive shaft components stay together, or at least try to :rolleyes:

Don't know much about it but i was wondering;

How does the gearbox, tail shaft and other important components hold up with a 500hp rwd vehicle? what are the common weak links in a r34 gtt. and what should i be focusing on?

the car currently has a Nismo Coppermix Twin Plate which is mroe then enough for the 500hp.

p.s: the car is staying MT

any help much appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/325847-driveshaft-upgrades/
Share on other sites

Two of these puppies for starters.

post-12712-1277176984_thumb.jpg

Diff and tailshaft don't usually have trouble. You have, are going to upgrade the diff center anyway.

Not sure if the 6 bolt flange on the GTR shafts will bolt up to the GT-T halfshafts that slip into the diff though.

thanks for advise sean,

apologies for the dumb questions but what exactly is that? is that the center diff? how much do these fetch for? and where can they be sourced?

dont aftermarket companies make these sorts of stuff?

how do the Rb25 gearboxes hold up?

Edited by Jap_Muscle

I know that some people put in a whole GTR rear cradle that has all the diff, shafts etc already there, Abo Bob is one member that has done the GTR upgrade, so he would be more helpfull with the details.

The 25 box is basically the same as a late R33GTR gear box so they are pretty strong, especially for RWD. Only weaknesses are third gear and synchros at high rev fast shifts.

Os giken and Par etc are a couple of gearset upgrades available.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...html&hl=gtr

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Gt...html&hl=gtr

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Di...html&hl=gtr

Buy complete r32/33 GTR rear cradle.

Use the axles, hubs and diff out of it .

Throw the rest in the bin.

If you want a 1.5 way you will have to get that done at same time.

Fairly easy exercise. Wont need to worrie about breaking axles again.

I have just done the conversion into my R34 GTT

Buy complete r32/33 GTR rear cradle.

Use the axles, hubs and diff out of it .

Throw the rest in the bin.

If you want a 1.5 way you will have to get that done at same time.

Fairly easy exercise. Wont need to worrie about breaking axles again.

I have just done the conversion into my R34 GTT

This is the right answer.

I paid $700 from a mate for the the lot from an R32 GTR. My traction control stopped working, and presumably the ABS, although the rear isn't really a problem in most ABS needing situations.

I did it because I snapped a drive shaft.

you would probably wanna upgrade sway bar and traction brackets etc... rb25 box's are probably the strongest outta skyline boxes.... tail shaft will be fine... ur diff on the other hand might not last too long... if your serious and have the $ to back ya idd go borg warner 28 spline or 31 spline diff outta vl or r31... they run 9's in em just fine so you'd think they'd be good but you needa modify/change the brackets etc...

can the billet gtr driveshafts that hi octane fit into the rear without having to mod everything? from what ive seen they come as just the splined shafts

sorry just following up on this

if i put a gtr rear cradle in my car with a gtr 1.5 way diff can i use the hi octane billet drive shaft set

im in the same position as the op just with a shit load more power.

and ill be using the 25 box with os gearset inside it.

  • 4 weeks later...

^ be good to know that as wel. those babies look tough as.

i had a chat to SydneyKid (gary) not long ago and i remember him sayign that the R34 GTT already had GTR hubs and axles when Nissan built them?

i might have misheard but i do remember him saying the GTTs had similar drive train components to the GTRs. can anyone confirm what?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...