Jump to content
SAU Community

Radius Rod Bush - 1 Piece Vs 2 Piece

Kinks
 Share

Recommended Posts

Kinks Grand Master

Kinks

Posted
Posted

Looking at replacing my radius rod bush as an overall suspension refresher, Whiteline make a 1 piece bush and Nolathane make a 2 piece bush. The Whiteline would have to be pressed in, Nolathane looks like you just line the bits up and put the rod back in place and whack a bolt through it.

Is the whiteline a better bush or is there not really much difference in practice?

post-1980-1277274307_thumb.jpg

post-1980-1277274340_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/326002-radius-rod-bush-1-piece-vs-2-piece/
Share on other sites
Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

they both go straight in without a press...its nice and loose until the central/adjustable bush is in.

AFAIK these will be the same. the noltec ones are the good ones because you can easily adjust them on car....with the style above you need to drop the caster rod out to rotate the adjusting bsuh

Kinks Grand Master

Kinks

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ahh cheers Duncan - the noltec brand is now called whiteline plus by the looks of it

http://www.whiteline.com.au/Plus/product_d...t_number=W82481

I see what everyone means now by toothed bolt for on-car adjustment.

I remember an earlier post by you saying you used the "standard" adjustable ones and set both to max and it was close enough.. are the noltec ones worth the premium? (is caster something that requires adjustment every alignment or is it set and forget)?

post-1980-1277287186_thumb.jpg

BI6TIM Enthusiast

BI6TIM

Posted
Posted

I have the Whiteline plus in my 33 now. Only been in there about 2 weeks, trialing them for work at the moment, they seem good so far.

For everyone who reads this, DON'T USE NOLATHANE EVER!!! They are absolute rubbish! I work in suspension and I've seen them fall apart in cars that have not even been driven yet.

If not whiteline plus, use Superpro bushes. On another note, once you have as close to the desired castor as the bushes will allow, there is really no need to be adjusting them. If you want easily adjusted, get rose jointed adjustable castor rods.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • PranK
      R35 GT-R production ends after 18 years

      By PranK · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...